Costa Rica Paradise

It’s hard to believe that it’s already 15 months since our last international travel adventure. 2020 did not pan out as expected, but as we quarantined at home, we found plenty of time to look at travel photos and reminisce about all the fun we have been having these past couple of years.

The year got away from me as we rescheduled then cancelled trips in order to stay safe, but my favorite photos bring back the highlights of the Guanacaste area of Costa Rica, which is a tropical paradise with gorgeous beaches and shoreline, beautiful mountain ranges, and a number of volcanoes.

Costa Rica was never on our radar until 2020. We usually plan Maui in January/February, which to be truthful, we did as well in January. But we discovered that Chicago to Liberia, Costa Rica on United is just under a 5 hour flight. In February the average temperature is high 70’s to low 80’s daytime, so finding a JW Marriott Resort & Spa on the beach near Tamarindo, it was hard to resist a second winter getaway.

Le Grimpeur found a new favorite – Mansita beer – Pilsner hand crafted just for the JW Marriott

The JW Marriott is pretty fabulous but not walk to town. Relaxing is key here with the huge pool area fronting the beach, surrounded by hacienda type buildings and (at this time) seven dining options, which change based on time of day. For example, Tamarine, the sushi restaurant that looks out over the pool area in the evening, is a breakfast buffet in the morning.

Plenty of fresh fish on the menu for the week, sushi at Tamarine, and scrumptious steak at Sabanero Steak House
View from Tamarine

If you’re a pool person, you really do not have to leave the resort. Rum coconuts, fruity drinks, frosty Mansita pilsners and shrimp tacos will be brought to your lounge chair while you enjoy tropical breezes.

There are water aerobics classes if you feel the need to exercise or you can walk down the beach to a couple other resorts or bar/restaurants.

View of beach from Infinity edge of pool area
Complimentary coconut rum drinks on arrival – but sadly no straws to be had, paper or otherwise.

Daily nature walks on the property start very early before temperatures heat up. You will see howler monkeys, parrots, toucans snake skins (which delighted the kids), and plenty of local flora & fauna.

If you decide to stay at the resort and dine at one of the many restaurants, make sure to time dinner around sunset so that you do not miss walking on the beach with champagne or just sitting on a fallen driftwood tree to get the perfect sunset shot.

The town of Tamarindo is about 20 minutes away by resort shuttle or taxi/Uber if you would like to shop or try out the restaurants.

Pangas Beach Club is one of the top rated restaurants in Tamarindo, on the beach and I would say a romantic date destination. We did take the evening shuttle into Tamarindo one evening to visit Pangas to include sunset on the beach. We were not disappointed as we are both seafood lovers, and the ambiance of sitting at the table with your feet in the sand, candlelight, drinks & your beloved close at hand while you watch the sunset is just so relaxing. You sigh and realize, This is retirement!

Pre-sunset Pangas
Always men with horses at every beach

We still need to learn to totally relax, so had planned our week so that every other day we would have one activity and the next day would be relaxing at the resort with a little exercise, so yes we did try water aerobics a couple times.

Our first activity was a private sloth encounter which we found quite interesting. We have probably seen sloths at the zoo, but this day trip involved visiting Finca Verde Lodge in Bagaces. This is a private ecotourism reserve with sloths in their natural habitat, birdwatching, frogs, lizards, and butterflies. The guide helped us site many sloths with huge binoculars and assisted us with taking photos.

We also recommend a sunset sail that includes lunch & snorkel. We booked the Blue Dolphin Charter, but there are many to choose from and they leave from the beach area in Tamarindo all around the same time.

Now that we are fully & gratefully vaccinated, it’s time to start planning 2021 adventures…C’est tout!

VetsAid 2018 and Tacoma Washington

VetsAid is a national non profit organization and benefit music festival founded by Joe Walsh to raise and disperse funds to veterans groups across the country. In 2017,  Joe began organizing an annual benefit concert along with other artists, to be held in a different city each year on Veteran’s Day.

VetsAid 2018 was held at the Tacoma Dome on November 11, 2018 with Joe Walsh, James Taylor, Don Henley, Chris Stapleton, Ringo Starr, the indie pop group Haim, and Steuart Smith, one of the lead guitarists from the Eagles.

 

James Taylor – Sweet Baby James

Don Henley

Chris Stapleton

 

 

Between musical acts during the concert, interviews of military personnel, veterans, and supporters played on the big screens. We were pleased to learn that Midwest Shelter for Homeless Veterans, one of our favorite local veteran’s groups based in Wheaton, Illinois, was designated as a beneficiary of VetsAid 2018. Each of the organizations chosen, deliver evidence-based, high-impact programs that have proven to positively impact the lives of military families.

This year $1.2M was raised to help veterans and their families with over 18,000 attendees at the concert. I don’t think the concert could be more fantastic, but we’ll see in 2019.  

With the concert as our primary reason for the trip, we made it a long weekend getaway with a visit to downtown Seattle and a day exploring downtown Tacoma. As with Seattle, there is so much to see and do in Tacoma, we had to prioritize our day, so…cars it is.

Our first stop was LeMay – American’s Car Museum, with 250 automobiles spanning over 100 years of automotive history, automotive artifacts, kids zone, and another 100 vehicles on exhibit loan from private collections.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were entertained for hours, and then enjoyed lunch overlooking the main exhibit floor.

Tacoma is also known for the Museum of Glass, which has works by renowned glass artist Dale Chihuly among its exhibits. The Glass Museum is at the end of the Chihuly Bridge of Glass which is a must see even if you’re not in the mood for a full museum visit.

One of many outdoor ceiling panels on Chihuly Bridge of Glass

One of two 40′ high Crystal Towers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Turn around on the glass bridge and you are presented with a view of Union Station Tacoma which currently operates as a Federal Courthouse, as the last passenger train departed from the station in 1984.  Listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1974, the rotunda can be rented out for events, and is worth a peek inside for the gorgeous Beaux-Art architecture.

Union Station Tacoma built circa 1910

Glass window inside Union Station

 

 

 

This area of Pacific Avenue is known as Museum Row, and is home to the Tacoma Art Museum, the Washington State History Museum, which features hands-on exhibits and a model railroad, and the Children’s Museum of Tacoma.

You knew there would be shopping…The Goods at the Museum is located in the lobby of the Washington State History Museum and is a sister store to Shop Stocklist across the street on Pacific Avenue. They both offer unusual and local gifts, cards, soaps, stuffed animals, towels, Holiday items, it goes on and on….go there to peruse and support local economy.

One of three colored-glass Viking ships by the Danish artist Vibeke Skov, hanging at nearby Hotel Murano

The Museum Row area of Tacoma has a few nice hotels such as the Courtyard Marriott and Hotel Murano, as well as being steps from the Tacoma Link Light Rail, which is a free streetcar connecting the downtown core to the Tacoma Dome Station.

Exploring the downtown neighborhood, we found Tacoma to be artsy, visually entertaining at every turn, and a little hilly…so think about the scooters.

Waited for her to open her eyes…

Scooters to rent at every corner

 

 

 

Tacoma is just an hour from Seattle and LeBonVie recommended for it’s museums, events, and walkability.

C’est tout!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunny Day in Seattle

In November, we had a fortuitous opportunity to visit Seattle/Tacoma for a long weekend.  John has been for work and I’ve been for play, but never had the chance to explore together.

My playmate

As we were in town for VetsAid 2018, we decided to stay near the Tacoma Dome, but we discovered if you’re a senior citizen (sigh), it’s just $1 bus ride from Tacoma to downtown Seattle, home of the famous Pike Place Market.  Seattle’s original farmers market was established in 1907 and is still a very happening place and top tourist destination. Pike Place Market Historical District covers 9 areas stretching from mid-block south of Pike Street, north to Virginia Street, and Western to First Avenues. It is an incredibly vibrant neighborhood comprised of hundreds of farmers, craftspeople, artisans, buskers, small businesses and residents.

 

 

 

 

 

If you don’t mind crowds, Saturday is the best day to visit,

when there is non-stop entertainment,

 

 

 

the original Starbucks,

 

fish markets,

 

craft tables, boutique shopping, and Post Alley,

Robot vs. Sloth Shop

 

 

and tables and table of gorgeous flower bouquets for just $10.

 

 

 

 

DeLaurenti’s Food Market located inside the market, draws you in their entrance with a couple walls of chocolate from all over the world and all of the favorites from Italy that you could imagine filling your suitcase… wine, cheese, coffee, pasta and more.

 

 

Snacking cannot be avoided, especially at Le Panier, conveniently located a few doors down from Starbucks.

John’s favorite

Almond Chocolate croissants

 

 

After a few hours of wandering, caffeinating, snacking and shopping, we celebrated choosing such a sunny day to visit Seattle with lunch at Place Pigalle, a tiny hidden gem in a corner of the market, with a view of the water.

Fresh crab cakes…but you had me at baguette!

 

 

View from Place Pigalle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We enjoyed the view and relaxed with a lovely glass of Sancerre, then decided to explore the Pioneer Square area before heading back to Tacoma.

Pioneer Square was once the heart of Seattle and settled in 1852.  The original wooden buildings were burned in the Great Seattle Fire of 1889. The replacement brick and stone buildings erected in the 1890s are mostly examples of Richardsonian Romanesque, and quite stunning to gaze up at reaching for the sky.

It’s a hilly walk from Pike Place Market to Pioneer Square with a lot of attractive architecture and colorful street art, and boutiques, dining and hotels.

 

 

Besides visiting our friends in the area, there are so many more attractions on our Seattle to do list, such as Chihuly Garden and Glass, Space Needle, Museum of Flight, and a trip to Mt. Ranier. We tasted just a little of what Seattle offers and plan to visit again soon…C’est tout!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Highland Holiday 2018

Kilmuir, former fishing village on the Black Isle

Autumn is upon us and it’s time to cozy up indoors with a warm drink and summer vacation photos. I have been blog-crastinating about our most significant vacation this year. Over three wonderful three weeks long…surely the fodder of many posts, but where do I begin?

We eagerly counted down the days to the July 2018 Clan MacLennan Gathering in Inverness  since the last gathering in 2014. On previous Scottish vacations, we experienced a number of must do events, attractions. We have fantastic memories of InvernessEdinburgh Fringe Fest, hiking on Isle of Skye, and Culloden Battlefield.  In 2018, besides catching up with our worldwide MacLennan relatives at the gathering and participating in a full calendar of MacLennan events, we planned in-depth local ancestry research, combing through microfilm and cemeteries, visiting ancestral towns, ferrying to the Isle of Lewis, meeting our best friends at Isle of Skye and spending a week exploring Edinburgh with them…a loaded itinerary.

But first on the agenda, was a drive on the North Coast 500. We created a list of possible attractions, ancestral destinations, distilleries, museums, scenic walks, historic ruins, boat trips, puffin watching, chocolate emporiums, anything interesting…that we might pass on the NC500. The North Coast 500 is Scotland’s Route 66. It’s a 516 mile scenic route around the north coast of Scotland, starting and stopping at Inverness Castle.

Alas not our rental car

We became members of the NC500 club so that we had a cute little travel passport to get stamped as we checked off destinations. The passport comes with a map and online access with recommended places to stop along the way to see, stay, or dine.  The north coast, as of this writing is a sparsely populated area and the NC500 was launched to increase tourism. You can drive the route clockwise or counter clockwise and customize it to your interests, taking as long as you like, or bombing it out in under a week.

It’s a good 3 hour drive from Edinburgh airport to the NC500 starting point in Inverness. After landing at dinnertime, it took 2 hours to get out of the airport due to baggage claim and car rental craziness. Luckily we planned to just drive over the Firth of Forth to Clark Cottage Guest House in Dunfermline for the evening. After informing our hosts we were running late, they made dinner reservations for us next door at The Elizabethan. Dinner was delicious (read plenty of wine), and the homey restaurant popular with the locals. The Clark Guest house was 5 star, oh so comfy, and extremely reasonable, with made to order breakfast. Traveler perfection. Just a half hour drive from the airport, stopping at Clark Cottage will be our go to plan from now on when flying into Edinburgh.

Our first morning in country, energized by coffee and a full Scottish breakfast, we began the short 40 minute drive north to Scone Palace (pronounced scoon) in Perth.

Scone Palace is home of the Stone of Scone or Stone of Destiny, the coronation stone, and is the crowning place of the Kings of Scots.  Kenneth MacAlpin (traditionally known as the first King of Scots), Shakespeare’s Macbeth, Robert the Bruce, and Charles II number amongst the 38 kings of Scots inaugurated and crowned at Scone.

If you’re interested, I recommend watching the Stone of Destiny (2008) on Amazon Prime. It’s the story of Ian Hamilton, a dedicated nationalist who reignited Scottish national pride in the 1950s with his daring raid on the heart of England to bring the Stone of Scone back to Scotland.

As of this writing, the real coronation Stone is on display at Edinburgh Castle, alongside the Honours of Scotland, with a replica stone on the grounds of Scone Palace.

We toured Scone Palace, where friendly guides explained the history of the family, the historical paintings, and the collections. After the requisite fawning over art and objects, we traipsed downstairs to enjoy tea (lattes really) and buttery scones with clotted cream in the inner courtyard.

The tea room and gift shop are both first rate.

Scone Palace Tea Room

Fortified, we meandered the grounds and took photos of the chapel and the replica stone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just 45 minutes north of Scone Palace on the A9, is Pitlochry, the main tourist town for Highland Perthshire where we stopped to walk around, and a find a tasty bit of lunch. Shopping was not on the agenda, but the Honest Thistle and The Highland Soap Company were irresistible. It was too early in the trip to start filling our suitcases with treasures, but Honest Thistle had an amazing selection of talented UK designers and made in Scotland items. And really, a bar of lavender soap in the luggage keeps everything fresh…that’s my logic.

Pitlochry    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our plan included stopping at the Leault Working Sheep Dogs near Aviemore, but a multi-vehicle accident rendered the sometimes two lane A9 (single carriageway) a literal parking lot. Impatient, we backtracked and attempted to take a frontage road to bypass, where we found ourselves at a standstill on a country road for a couple hours, along with hundreds of cars and one very photogenic horse. Travel rule #1: Always pack snacks and water in the car for detours.

We missed the legendary sheep dog show, but it’s on our list for next time. Once we started moving again, we passed Dahwhinnie Distillery in the Cairngorm National Park, one of our favorites and a must stop, but we’re coming back this way with friends.

Old Drynie House

Our destination was the Old Drynie House in Kilmuir, just past Inverness on the Black Isle. We arrived late in the afternoon, gingerly following a one lane winding country road, lined with deep car-consuming-culverts on each side. We worried about going back and forth at night to dinner but forged ahead and found ourselves at an oasis on the Moray Firth.

Delighted to be out of the car, we explored the majestic grounds and hiked down the leafy forest paths to the water to explore the firth and to skip stones.

 

Join us next post as we continue our Highland adventure. C’est tout!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Norway in a Nutshell Adventure

We woke up early on our fourth day in country to continue on our Norway excursion, and to catch the 6:25 Bergen train. Our Norway In A Nutshell began gray and rainy, and very grateful to be warm and cosy on the train instead of sightseeing Oslo. The train passed through the scenic terrain west, through little towns built along the railway, and the fjords. It was about a 5-1/2 hour trip to the town of Myrdal, where we disembarked to wait for the legendary Flåm Railway train.

Myrdal 866,8 meters over sea level (for comparison, Chicago is 181 meters over sea level)

We descended onto a platform with 360 degree mountain views, and a misty rain. Much colder in Flåm, we quickly pulled out puffy coats for the 40 minute wait. Passengers paced back and forth across the platform with their luggage, trying to determine the best place to stand.

When the bright green Flåmsbana train showed up, everyone jostled to board quickly. The seats were not reserved, and a window seat is preferred for the scenery to come. Our itinerary stated this ride offers spectacular panoramic views to some of the wildest and most magnificent nature in the Norwegian fjord landscape. Not an exaggeration, there were also flat screened monitors to provide clues of what you were about to experience, and a pre-recorded narration as well. Besides a few tiny station stops for locals, our first stop was a large platform where everyone disembarked for the Kjosfossen Waterfall. This waterfall is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Norway, with a total fall of around 738 ft. There is a small power station on the waterfall used to power the Flåm Line railway. During the stop, an actress dressed as Huldra (a seductive forest creature in Scandinavian folklore), dances and sings in front of the waterfall. When everyone had their fill of photos, we climbed back to our seats and continued the journey.

Hulda – click below for video

 

 

The Flåmsbana chugged on for almost an hour, past scenic panoramas, waterfalls, and colorful housing enclaves, before we reached the town of Flåm. The train slowed down for a view of the main town with the church on its way to the Flåm harbor.

Flåm, Norway – population 350

 

 

Plus one very photogenic horse

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flåm harbor is is where the action is, and where you are held captive until the next leg of your journey. The harbor is a beehive of activity and tourists; home to the Mall of Norway, restaurants, tourist office, cruise and ferry line docking, a little red tourist train, Flam Railway MuseumFjord Safari rib boat tours, a hotel, a park, and more shopping.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Social media starved tourists taking birdie photos

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had booked the Bergen Express Boat to ferry us 10 minutes up the Aurslandsfjorden to the Vangsgaarden Gjestgiveri hotel in Aursland for the evening. The customizable Norway in a Nutshell tour can be completed in less than a day, but we broke up the trip so that we could relax, explore, and engage in a few activities.  The express boat schedule left us with a couple hours to to entertain ourselves at Flåm Harbor, so we dropped off our rollers and backpacks at the luggage hut, enjoyed a grilled sausage lunch on the patio, took photos, and shopped.

People start lining up for the express boat about a half hour before boarding time, queueing in order to  get the best seat. We were only cruising for 10 minutes, but we snagged the front two seats by the door, which we later bequeathed to the friendly elderly couple sitting behind us.

 

We chatted with the cheerful boat staff, who inquired about our plans. Engaging powerful bow thrusters, the boat barely slowed down in Aursland. The crew dropped the gang plank, and with a hearty farewell, deposited us on the deserted pier.

Aurland pier and ferry stop

 

Maps.me showed us the way to Vangsgaarden Giestgiveri hotel just a few blocks away. Again I was reminded it’s best to pack light. Most every town in Norway seems cobbled or hilly or both.  If I could pack just a backpack, I would…but shoes happen.

We could not have chosen a more perfect hotel for a break. Vangsgaarden Giestgiveri is historic, charming, and recently remodeled with cozy rooms, great views, comfortable beds, and an interesting collection of cottages, buildings, and lawn areas.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

View from our room

 

 

 

 

living room

 

Breakfast room

One of the resident kitties prowling for attention

Reception

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before dinner we took a little walk around town, through the lovely churchyard and down to the river.

No quarters needed for a reindeer ride

Skipping rocks…

Vangen Church

After walking around the grounds and town, we were ready for an early dinner. Duehaset Pub opens at six, so like the other eager, parched guests, we queued up promptly at opening, just steps from the hotel front door. The patio was open with a magnificent view of the fjord, built in heaters, and a retractable roof.

Toasting our good fortune at Duehaset Pub

 

 

Birthday month dessert – keep them coming

Norwegian salmon – yum!

 

 

After a tasty dinner, a well deserved night of quiet peaceful sleep, and a Norwegian buffet breakfast, we were rested and ready for the next day of adventures on the fjords.

Aabelheim Breakfast House

 

C’est tout!

 

Ancestral Visit to Historic Fredrikstad Norway

Being an avid genealogist, I am eager to claim ancestors worldwide for both myself and my husband. We enjoy visiting different countries to explore history and culture, and to imagine where and how our relatives lived. In celebration of a significant birthday this year, we booked a September trip to Norway in order to discover my Scandinavian roots.

After landing in Oslo, and a quick trip on the Flytoget to the city, we settled in for a couple nights at a Thon Hotel within walking distance from Central Station. Lovely and comfortable, the hotel offered free breakfast at a Michelin recommended restaurant and a dinner buffet, welcome in a country where dining is known to be expensive.

Our first full day in Norway was a planned ancestry expedition to Fredrikstad, from where my great grandparents emigrated in the 1800’s. Fredrikstad is approximately 1 hour south of Oslo by train. It is the main city in Ostfold county, and is currently the fifth largest in Norway. Fredrikstad was built at the mouth of the Glomma River as a replacement city, after Sarpsborg (upstream) was burnt down by the Swedish Army in the 1500s.

We arrived at the city centre on the west bank of the Glomma River just in time to enjoy a delightful birthday lunch at Restaurant Slippen, arranged my thoughtful husband.

 

After toasting with Sancerre, and dining on oysters and fresh seafood, we walked across the bridge to the free ferry that would motor us down to the fortified old town on the east bank. It was a charming journey down the Gamma, viewing the many boats harbored along the way.

 

The Old town in Fredrikstad is a much-visited sight, as it is one of the best preserved fortified towns in the Nordic region.  It was constructed according to Dutch architectural models, with wide, water-filled moats and high earth ramparts. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fredrikstad Ferry Stop

 

We walked the cobbled streets, enjoyed the architecture, and stopped in the tourism office for a chat, where the clerk educated us in local history. When Sarpsborg was burned down by the Swedish Army in the 1500’s, King Frederick II decreed a new town be built and named after himself in a better location. This is the current day Old Town. She assured us the Swedish are fine now; They love the Norwegians. We promised ourselves to do more research on Scandinavian history as Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Finland, and Iceland all seem to have intertwined pasts, conflicts, and rulers.

The old town quarter of Fredrikstad has 350 inhabitants today. It seems a quiet community, although filled with art galleries, unique shops, the Fredrikstad Museum, historic church, and many opportunities to enjoy a meal, a bottle of wine, or coffee.  Here you can also visit Gamlebyen Miniature Railroad, the largest model railroad exhibition in Scandinavia.

Tourism Bureau

 

 

 

 

 

 

Østre Fredrikstad Church, The Old Town – rebuilt 1779

Gamlebyen Kulturhus cafe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

King Frederick II of Denmark 1534-1588

 

 

Cafe Lattes and caramel apple pie at Cafe Magenta

 

 

 

 

 

 

We soon found ourselves in the courtyard of Cafe Magenta and could not resist a homemade treat. Fortified with caffeine and caramel apple pie, we continued to meander the Fredrikstad Fortress area which was constructed between 1663 and 1666. The only time the fortress was attacked was during the 1814 Swedish–Norwegian War.

 

 

The fortress closed in 1903, but continued to serve as a garrison until the remaining military installations in Fredrikstad were closed in 2002. It is unique by being the only fortress that is preserved as it was in Norway. The mix of old buildings and art exhibitions is photogenic and provides an interesting stroll back in time.

 

 

 

Being early September, the town was lovely, although a little gray and quiet. Children had returned to school and fall was in the air. All too soon it was time to leave this historic town with worn cobbles, narrow streets and impressive buildings as we continued our Norwegian adventure…C’est tout!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Willamette Wonders and Wineries

Too much wine? I think not…

The lush Willamette Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area) is Oregon’s largest wine region, stretching more than 100 miles from Portland in northern Oregon to Eugene, and boasting over 21,000 acres of vineyards and over 500 wineries. The Willamette Valley is know for it’s pinot noir and pinot gris, but also chardonnay, riesling, pinot blanc, and a handful of other grapes.

Less than an hour drive from Portland, a visit to the tasting rooms and scenic vineyards is easily accessible.  Staying downtown Portland, we decided to rely on other responsible drivers to chauffeur, so we arranged four different tours for this getaway: two wine, one scenic nature, and one half day city tour/half day of wineries. It was a good mix of activities albeit a little wine-heavy. We might have gotten carried away…but hey it was birthday week!

We used three different companies and had four different drivers over the four days to mix it up. We met some friendly people, learned about Portland and Oregon, the mountains and falls, and tasted some very nice vino.

An early morning pickup resulted in a little sightseeing along the way. On our first stop was about 10-15 minutes out of downtown Portland, the historic Pittock Mansion which is now a museum.Pittock was once owned by Henry Pittock, best known for for being the successful newspaper publisher and owner of The Oregonian. newspaper which is still the Portland daily newspaper. He built a financial empire by investing in real estate, banking, railroads, steamboats, sheep ranching, silver mining, and the paper industry. Henry was an avid outdoorsman, bicycle enthusiast, and was among the first group to climb Mount Hood, a Renaissance man.

The mansion is a 16,000 square foot French Renaissance style home designed to capture the view of downtown Portland and the Cascade Mountains. Panoramic views and modern conveniences were the distinctive features of this luxurious home completed in 1914.  

We enjoyed touring the home, lodge, and grounds. The tour is a great way to get a feel for the history of Portland, see some fantastic panoramic views of the city and river, and there is a unique little gift shop.

There is also a scenic 5 mile hike from Lower MacLeay Park Trailhead to the Pittock Mansion. For information on the moderate level hike, click here.

From Pittock Mansion, it’s just another half hour west to wine country.  Along the way you will see many filbert orchards which are the same as hazelnuts – think Nutella. Oregon boasts an ideal climate for growing the most hazelnuts in the United States due to the temperate ocean, mountain and river climates, and rich volcanic soil. Who knew? But we do like hazelnuts, so we picked up a few bags….spicy, salty, plain or chocolate covered. It’s all good.

Hazelnut/Filbert shells

Oregon also produces the hybrid Marion Blackberry, referred to as the Marionberry which we enjoyed frequently over our visit. It is the Cabernet of Blackberries, larger, sweeter and juicer. Unfortunately, a well kept Oregon secret, we do not see them in the Midwest. Rhubarb was also on the menu literally everywhere. Really people, why is rhubarb even a thing?

Alpacas seem to be indigenous to the valley, being raised for their fibers, petting, and photo opportunities.

So now, on to the good stuff. Wine tasting in the Willamette Valley.  

Over the three wine centric tours and many wineries we visited, our number one favorite is Domain Drouhin in Dundee, where the motto is French Soul, Oregon Soil. We love the Drouhin Family wines from Burgundy and have visited Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, France, which has been in the family for 130 years. We met the winemaker’s daughter Laurene working in the Oregon winery on an internship, so we bought a bottle of the 2014 Laurene Pinot Noir which she very graciously autographed.

Laurene Drouhin signs Laurene 2014 Pinot Noir

Kathy, Laurene Drouhin, & John

Another new favorite is Blizzard Wines in Hillsboro. The Blizzard tasting room is fairly new and gorgeous. Mary, our wine hostess prepared delectable snacks for us to enjoy while she regaled us with tales of the winemaker Dana Blizzard. A little wine, cheese and chocolate inspired us to ship home a half case of the 2016 Blizzard Pinot Gris and 2015 Blizzard Cabernet Sauvignon.

Blizzard Wines upper tasting party room

Hazelnuts for two

Ruby Vineyard in Hillsboro produces pinot noir, pinot gris, chardonnay, and rosé from 7.25 acres of Old Vines on Laurelwood soil. Ruby had a great relaxing vibe and easy chatty staff who kept our glasses full. Our first stop, it was peaceful and bucolic.

Ruby Vineyard, Hillsboro

View from Ruby VineyardChehalem

Chehalem Wines has a comfortable tasting room in Newberg. We had their wines with dinner in a few different restaurants in Portland. It was no contest to stop in here, enjoy a flight and bring home a bottle of their 2015 Corral Creek Pinot Noir for the Chehalem Mountains AVA. They also produce pinot blanc, chardonnay, and grüner veltliner, which I really enjoyed.

Árdíri Winery in Cornelius is where the locals go. They’re open late, have an amazing outdoor space to drink wine, picnic, enjoy the fire pits, play games and watch the sunset over Mount Hood. Their vines originate from Burgundy and produce remarkable red, white and rosé wines.

View of Mount Hood from Árdíri’

A suitable birthday present at Árdíri Winery, as John lives to ride his bicycle

We spent some time chatting with Steve at Styring Vineyards in Newberg. It is a boutique winery and extremely casual, but very comfortable and great wines. We bought their artisan 2013 Styring Estate Pinot Noir.

Styring casual tasting room

Soléna Estate winery is gorgeous and their host Jason Werner very welcoming. We had a lovely elegant picnic lunch on their patio while Jason poured scrumptious tastes for us. Our favorite is the 2015 Domaine Danielle Laurent Chardonnay.  They have events here sometimes more than once a week and their entertaining space is extraordinary.  Jason was traveling to Chicago the following week to pour their wines at Beacon Tavern during Pinot in the City Days, so I guess their pinots have already been discovered.

View from Soléna

Dominio IV Winery distinctive barn

Dominio IV  biodynamic wines in Carlton, Oregon are very memorable. Our wine host Todd sat down with us over every pour in their farmhouse tasting room to discuss the wines and to talk about the winemakers and the vineyards.

Taste diagram for 2008 Dominio IV Syrah (please excuse flash photography)

Dominio IV is very creative. They have an Imagination series of wine with labels painted to describe how the wines taste.  Imagine if Georgia O’Keeffe painted each label to visually represent a wine’s taste, the tannins, the texture, the acidity? A water color of flowing lines and shapes to guide you through the flavors and how they hit your palate.

We love this winery, the 2012 Tango Tempranillo, and especially their 2013 The Black and the Red Pinot Noir.  Tasting Notes:  It is she of the volcanic soils who glides in rhythm, in her own time. She dances in flowing gowns of red raspberry and bright strawberry. The wind is not to be discounted, for he brings the dance of power, black as night. Jos ,press are made of flint, but he holds her soft hand as if he held the razor’s edge. The dance of 50% Bella Vida and 50% Menefee Vineyard.   Perfection!

There was so much more wine and food involved in this getaway and most of it was pretty darn tasty. Most of all we made delicious memories in the Willamette Valley. I hope this has inspired you to visit the Willamette Valley, taste, and make your own memories. C’est Tout!

Oak Park Farmer’s Market kickoffs the summer

Pilgrim Church donuts – a summer tradition – Plain, sugar and powdered.

Oak Park’s summer farmer’s market kicked off on Saturday May 19th in the Pilgrim Church parking lot on Lake Street.  The producers only market is held every Saturday from 7am to 1pm.  Come for the produce, organic meats, and plants, but don’t miss out on the entertainment and donuts.  It’s a summer tradition.

The sounds of summer Saturday mornings, with warm donuts and coffee, yum.

Almost too beautiful to eat

The Heritage chef demonstrates preparing a simple summer salad with produce from the market. Delicious!

 

 

J2K Capraio goat cheese – yes please

 

Fresh micro greens

Welcome summer…C’est tout!

 

Mount Hood over the vineyards

Mount Hood, Oregon

Why do wines grown in volcanic soil just taste so good? Terroir brings together the nature of the ground and soil, elevation, slope, rain, wind, climate and local microclimate. There are so many variables for grape farmers to develop, and winemakers to capitalize on.

The Columbia River Valley has five volcanoes: Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson, Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams, and Mount Rainier.

 

Keep Portland Unique

Keep Portland Weird is a thing – like Keep Austin Weird, but after a recent visit, we have decided Portland is just really unique.

Oh yeah, there are plenty of weird things, like this business that sells Bonus pants next to the portapotties, but hey, support small business!

Portland and the Oregon wine country have been on our getaway list for quite some time. Our travel to do list is pretty long, so we had just not prioritized it. First world problems I know, but LeBonVieTravels has a strategy. Besides planning summer and winter vacations, we observe birthdays with getaways rather than gifts. Birthdays are a good excuse to check out new restaurants, enjoy dessert, and taste a little wine, perhaps more than usual. So Hubby’s birthday celebration was a late spring holiday in Portland.

Our hotel stay was at The Nines, where hubs had arranged a suite upgrade with SPG – yes! Nothing says celebration like a little luxury and a view.

Pioneer Courthouse

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Nines is across the street from the Pioneer Courthouse and Square and very walkable to everything.  

Animals in Pools by American artist Georgia Gerber

On the maybe a little weird side, downtown Portland seems to have a lot of bronze sculptures of beavers and other Pacific Northwest wildlife, but the beaver is Oregon’s state animal as well as the Oregon State University football team – so that’s what that is all about.

 

 

Portland is an incredible little city with 5 quadrants: Southwest, Northwest, Southeast, Northeast, and North. The Willamette River divides the city between west and east.  Burnside Street crosses the river on the Burnside Bridge and divides the city into north and south. It’s known as the City of Bridges and also the City of Roses.

Morrison Bridge

 

 

We saw many bridges but it was too early for roses in May, unless they were on the side of a building.

 

 

 

 

 

Portland is less than an hour drive from the lush Willamette Valley wine country with over 19,000 acres of vineyards and over 500 wineries and tasting rooms. By the way, the correct pronunciation of Willamette as it relates to the Oregon wine region is Will-AM-it as in It’s Will-AM-it, damit!, which we heard many many times from Oregonians who thought they were very humorous.  Willamette Valley’s lush beauty and wineries is worth it’s own blog post, so more on that later.

The weather during our visit was amazing! Portland is estimated to have approximately 144 days of sunshine per year, and we used up almost 6 of them.

We walked down to the Willamette River waterfront where the birthday boy frolicked in the fountain (note to self – John will take on almost any dare even in a dress shirt).

 

One lane for walkers, two for bikes

Biketown Swoosh

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We admired the separate pedestrian and bike lanes, and the Biketown Nike sponsored bike sharing system, because Portland is all about cycling.

 

Chinatown

Southpark Seafood

 

 

 

 

 

Like most cities, Portland has many interesting signs and plenty of street art,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

unique paver sidewalk filled with famous quotes,

and lush city parks that continue for blocks.

We checked out some of the 52 Benson Bubblers that bubble water continuously. Twenty of these historic fountains date back to 1912 when philanthropist Simon Benson donated them to the city in the hope that they would reduce the consumption of alcoholic beverages during lunch breaks, and to ensure drinking water for everyone.

Benson Bubblers water fountains throughout Portland streets bubbling 365 days a years.

And of course we saw many clusters of food trucks, 

however, our first delicious lunch stop was Luc Lac Vietnamese Kitchen.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Every time we walked past Luc Lac, there were lines out the door, but we arrived at 11:15, literally minutes before the lunch crowd, ordered and were seated within 5 minutes.  The food was AMAZING. Lucky lucky at Luc Lac.

Shrimp balls on sugar cane sticks & the BEST wontons in the world

Steak skewers with chili peanut sauce

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MAPLE BACON!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We obviously did not count calories at all this week, so we also enjoyed Voodoo Donuts which is a Portland given…and saw people carrying those distinctive pink boxes all over town.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our hotel was conveniently about a block from Moonstruck Chocolate, home of luscious truffle treats, so yes we tasted a little of the cocoa confections.

There are a number of markets, but the big market is the Portland Saturday Market…where you can go on Sunday. Weird – right?  We went on Sunday and it was super cool.  Down near the waterfront and the Burnside Bridge, there is summer, sunshine, entertainment, food vendors, and lots of shopping.

 

 

Portlandians love brunch and therefore on Sunday we brunched at Mother’s Bistro. At Mother’s, it’s made with Love.

 

We rode the trolley and got off in the Pearl District to shop at Powell’s City of Books, which covers a whole city block. OMGoodness. If anyone can bring back reading real physical books, it’s Powells.  We loved this store! It has more books than a library – they say a million. They sell new and used books because Powells buys back books, and they sell other cool stuff like cards, notebooks, t-shirts, bags and travel accessories. Can’t say enough about Powells.

May was a bit soon for peak rose season, but the Lan Su Chinese Garden downtown was an amazing alternative. It is a photographer’s paradise as the gardens were designed to create scenes framed within scenes and framed again. Beautiful and oddly peaceful for being right in the heart of the city.

 

 

 

 

The Teahouse in the Tower of Cosmic Reflections offers tea and snacks if you decide to just stay, meditate and enjoy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As part of a city tour, we were brought up to the top of the medical district where we took an aerial tram ride down to the waterfront. The Oregon Health and Science University campus has grown so large that they operate two campus’ connected by the aerial tram.

The tram is free if you ride it from the Marquam Hill neighborhood down to the South Waterfront. So if you can get someone to drive you up to the top….it’s a cool panoramic vista at the upper station.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stephen Stills & Judy Blue Eyes Collins

 

 

We were very fortunate to snag tickets to a sold out Stephen Stills & Judy Collins concert at Revolution Hall. Revolution is a old high school that has been converted into a 850 seat performing arts venue with a rooftop bar and another bar right off the main floor seating area. It was intimate, had great acoustics, and Judy’s voice was amazing as ever as she hit the high notes in Both Sides Now.  Definitely check out the Revolution Hall website for the calendar of events if you will be in town.

The Eagles were scheduled to play at the Moda Center, home of the Portland Trailblazers, but unfortunately rescheduled. There are many concerts and events at Moda, so check their events calendar if you’re coming to town.

Our week was full of winery and city tours, an excursion to Mount Hood and the Gorge, and a historic concert. We packed so much into six days that Portland could be the topic of many blog posts and we definitely plan to visit again soon.

Stay tuned for some serious wine tasting and beautiful Oregon scenery.

I wonder how hubs will top this week when my birthday rolls around?  C’est tout!