Monthly Archives: May 2018

Willamette Wonders and Wineries

Too much wine? I think not…

The lush Willamette Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area) is Oregon’s largest wine region, stretching more than 100 miles from Portland in northern Oregon to Eugene, and boasting over 21,000 acres of vineyards and over 500 wineries. The Willamette Valley is know for it’s pinot noir and pinot gris, but also chardonnay, riesling, pinot blanc, and a handful of other grapes.

Less than an hour drive from Portland, a visit to the tasting rooms and scenic vineyards is easily accessible.  Staying downtown Portland, we decided to rely on other responsible drivers to chauffeur, so we arranged four different tours for this getaway: two wine, one scenic nature, and one half day city tour/half day of wineries. It was a good mix of activities albeit a little wine-heavy. We might have gotten carried away…but hey it was birthday week!

We used three different companies and had four different drivers over the four days to mix it up. We met some friendly people, learned about Portland and Oregon, the mountains and falls, and tasted some very nice vino.

An early morning pickup resulted in a little sightseeing along the way. On our first stop was about 10-15 minutes out of downtown Portland, the historic Pittock Mansion which is now a museum.Pittock was once owned by Henry Pittock, best known for for being the successful newspaper publisher and owner of The Oregonian. newspaper which is still the Portland daily newspaper. He built a financial empire by investing in real estate, banking, railroads, steamboats, sheep ranching, silver mining, and the paper industry. Henry was an avid outdoorsman, bicycle enthusiast, and was among the first group to climb Mount Hood, a Renaissance man.

The mansion is a 16,000 square foot French Renaissance style home designed to capture the view of downtown Portland and the Cascade Mountains. Panoramic views and modern conveniences were the distinctive features of this luxurious home completed in 1914.  

We enjoyed touring the home, lodge, and grounds. The tour is a great way to get a feel for the history of Portland, see some fantastic panoramic views of the city and river, and there is a unique little gift shop.

There is also a scenic 5 mile hike from Lower MacLeay Park Trailhead to the Pittock Mansion. For information on the moderate level hike, click here.

From Pittock Mansion, it’s just another half hour west to wine country.  Along the way you will see many filbert orchards which are the same as hazelnuts – think Nutella. Oregon boasts an ideal climate for growing the most hazelnuts in the United States due to the temperate ocean, mountain and river climates, and rich volcanic soil. Who knew? But we do like hazelnuts, so we picked up a few bags….spicy, salty, plain or chocolate covered. It’s all good.

Hazelnut/Filbert shells

Oregon also produces the hybrid Marion Blackberry, referred to as the Marionberry which we enjoyed frequently over our visit. It is the Cabernet of Blackberries, larger, sweeter and juicer. Unfortunately, a well kept Oregon secret, we do not see them in the Midwest. Rhubarb was also on the menu literally everywhere. Really people, why is rhubarb even a thing?

Alpacas seem to be indigenous to the valley, being raised for their fibers, petting, and photo opportunities.

So now, on to the good stuff. Wine tasting in the Willamette Valley.  

Over the three wine centric tours and many wineries we visited, our number one favorite is Domain Drouhin in Dundee, where the motto is French Soul, Oregon Soil. We love the Drouhin Family wines from Burgundy and have visited Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, France, which has been in the family for 130 years. We met the winemaker’s daughter Laurene working in the Oregon winery on an internship, so we bought a bottle of the 2014 Laurene Pinot Noir which she very graciously autographed.

Laurene Drouhin signs Laurene 2014 Pinot Noir

Kathy, Laurene Drouhin, & John

Another new favorite is Blizzard Wines in Hillsboro. The Blizzard tasting room is fairly new and gorgeous. Mary, our wine hostess prepared delectable snacks for us to enjoy while she regaled us with tales of the winemaker Dana Blizzard. A little wine, cheese and chocolate inspired us to ship home a half case of the 2016 Blizzard Pinot Gris and 2015 Blizzard Cabernet Sauvignon.

Blizzard Wines upper tasting party room

Hazelnuts for two

Ruby Vineyard in Hillsboro produces pinot noir, pinot gris, chardonnay, and rosé from 7.25 acres of Old Vines on Laurelwood soil. Ruby had a great relaxing vibe and easy chatty staff who kept our glasses full. Our first stop, it was peaceful and bucolic.

Ruby Vineyard, Hillsboro

View from Ruby VineyardChehalem

Chehalem Wines has a comfortable tasting room in Newberg. We had their wines with dinner in a few different restaurants in Portland. It was no contest to stop in here, enjoy a flight and bring home a bottle of their 2015 Corral Creek Pinot Noir for the Chehalem Mountains AVA. They also produce pinot blanc, chardonnay, and grüner veltliner, which I really enjoyed.

Árdíri Winery in Cornelius is where the locals go. They’re open late, have an amazing outdoor space to drink wine, picnic, enjoy the fire pits, play games and watch the sunset over Mount Hood. Their vines originate from Burgundy and produce remarkable red, white and rosé wines.

View of Mount Hood from Árdíri’

A suitable birthday present at Árdíri Winery, as John lives to ride his bicycle

We spent some time chatting with Steve at Styring Vineyards in Newberg. It is a boutique winery and extremely casual, but very comfortable and great wines. We bought their artisan 2013 Styring Estate Pinot Noir.

Styring casual tasting room

Soléna Estate winery is gorgeous and their host Jason Werner very welcoming. We had a lovely elegant picnic lunch on their patio while Jason poured scrumptious tastes for us. Our favorite is the 2015 Domaine Danielle Laurent Chardonnay.  They have events here sometimes more than once a week and their entertaining space is extraordinary.  Jason was traveling to Chicago the following week to pour their wines at Beacon Tavern during Pinot in the City Days, so I guess their pinots have already been discovered.

View from Soléna

Dominio IV Winery distinctive barn

Dominio IV  biodynamic wines in Carlton, Oregon are very memorable. Our wine host Todd sat down with us over every pour in their farmhouse tasting room to discuss the wines and to talk about the winemakers and the vineyards.

Taste diagram for 2008 Dominio IV Syrah (please excuse flash photography)

Dominio IV is very creative. They have an Imagination series of wine with labels painted to describe how the wines taste.  Imagine if Georgia O’Keeffe painted each label to visually represent a wine’s taste, the tannins, the texture, the acidity? A water color of flowing lines and shapes to guide you through the flavors and how they hit your palate.

We love this winery, the 2012 Tango Tempranillo, and especially their 2013 The Black and the Red Pinot Noir.  Tasting Notes:  It is she of the volcanic soils who glides in rhythm, in her own time. She dances in flowing gowns of red raspberry and bright strawberry. The wind is not to be discounted, for he brings the dance of power, black as night. Jos ,press are made of flint, but he holds her soft hand as if he held the razor’s edge. The dance of 50% Bella Vida and 50% Menefee Vineyard.   Perfection!

There was so much more wine and food involved in this getaway and most of it was pretty darn tasty. Most of all we made delicious memories in the Willamette Valley. I hope this has inspired you to visit the Willamette Valley, taste, and make your own memories. C’est Tout!

Oak Park Farmer’s Market kickoffs the summer

Pilgrim Church donuts – a summer tradition – Plain, sugar and powdered.

Oak Park’s summer farmer’s market kicked off on Saturday May 19th in the Pilgrim Church parking lot on Lake Street.  The producers only market is held every Saturday from 7am to 1pm.  Come for the produce, organic meats, and plants, but don’t miss out on the entertainment and donuts.  It’s a summer tradition.

The sounds of summer Saturday mornings, with warm donuts and coffee, yum.

Almost too beautiful to eat

The Heritage chef demonstrates preparing a simple summer salad with produce from the market. Delicious!

 

 

J2K Capraio goat cheese – yes please

 

Fresh micro greens

Welcome summer…C’est tout!

 

Mount Hood over the vineyards

Mount Hood, Oregon

Why do wines grown in volcanic soil just taste so good? Terroir brings together the nature of the ground and soil, elevation, slope, rain, wind, climate and local microclimate. There are so many variables for grape farmers to develop, and winemakers to capitalize on.

The Columbia River Valley has five volcanoes: Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson, Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams, and Mount Rainier.

 

Keep Portland Unique

Keep Portland Weird is a thing – like Keep Austin Weird, but after a recent visit, we have decided Portland is just really unique.

Oh yeah, there are plenty of weird things, like this business that sells Bonus pants next to the portapotties, but hey, support small business!

Portland and the Oregon wine country have been on our getaway list for quite some time. Our travel to do list is pretty long, so we had just not prioritized it. First world problems I know, but LeBonVieTravels has a strategy. Besides planning summer and winter vacations, we observe birthdays with getaways rather than gifts. Birthdays are a good excuse to check out new restaurants, enjoy dessert, and taste a little wine, perhaps more than usual. So Hubby’s birthday celebration was a late spring holiday in Portland.

Our hotel stay was at The Nines, where hubs had arranged a suite upgrade with SPG – yes! Nothing says celebration like a little luxury and a view.

Pioneer Courthouse

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Nines is across the street from the Pioneer Courthouse and Square and very walkable to everything.  

Animals in Pools by American artist Georgia Gerber

On the maybe a little weird side, downtown Portland seems to have a lot of bronze sculptures of beavers and other Pacific Northwest wildlife, but the beaver is Oregon’s state animal as well as the Oregon State University football team – so that’s what that is all about.

 

 

Portland is an incredible little city with 5 quadrants: Southwest, Northwest, Southeast, Northeast, and North. The Willamette River divides the city between west and east.  Burnside Street crosses the river on the Burnside Bridge and divides the city into north and south. It’s known as the City of Bridges and also the City of Roses.

Morrison Bridge

 

 

We saw many bridges but it was too early for roses in May, unless they were on the side of a building.

 

 

 

 

 

Portland is less than an hour drive from the lush Willamette Valley wine country with over 19,000 acres of vineyards and over 500 wineries and tasting rooms. By the way, the correct pronunciation of Willamette as it relates to the Oregon wine region is Will-AM-it as in It’s Will-AM-it, damit!, which we heard many many times from Oregonians who thought they were very humorous.  Willamette Valley’s lush beauty and wineries is worth it’s own blog post, so more on that later.

The weather during our visit was amazing! Portland is estimated to have approximately 144 days of sunshine per year, and we used up almost 6 of them.

We walked down to the Willamette River waterfront where the birthday boy frolicked in the fountain (note to self – John will take on almost any dare even in a dress shirt).

 

One lane for walkers, two for bikes

Biketown Swoosh

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We admired the separate pedestrian and bike lanes, and the Biketown Nike sponsored bike sharing system, because Portland is all about cycling.

 

Chinatown

Southpark Seafood

 

 

 

 

 

Like most cities, Portland has many interesting signs and plenty of street art,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

unique paver sidewalk filled with famous quotes,

and lush city parks that continue for blocks.

We checked out some of the 52 Benson Bubblers that bubble water continuously. Twenty of these historic fountains date back to 1912 when philanthropist Simon Benson donated them to the city in the hope that they would reduce the consumption of alcoholic beverages during lunch breaks, and to ensure drinking water for everyone.

Benson Bubblers water fountains throughout Portland streets bubbling 365 days a years.

And of course we saw many clusters of food trucks, 

however, our first delicious lunch stop was Luc Lac Vietnamese Kitchen.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Every time we walked past Luc Lac, there were lines out the door, but we arrived at 11:15, literally minutes before the lunch crowd, ordered and were seated within 5 minutes.  The food was AMAZING. Lucky lucky at Luc Lac.

Shrimp balls on sugar cane sticks & the BEST wontons in the world

Steak skewers with chili peanut sauce

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MAPLE BACON!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We obviously did not count calories at all this week, so we also enjoyed Voodoo Donuts which is a Portland given…and saw people carrying those distinctive pink boxes all over town.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our hotel was conveniently about a block from Moonstruck Chocolate, home of luscious truffle treats, so yes we tasted a little of the cocoa confections.

There are a number of markets, but the big market is the Portland Saturday Market…where you can go on Sunday. Weird – right?  We went on Sunday and it was super cool.  Down near the waterfront and the Burnside Bridge, there is summer, sunshine, entertainment, food vendors, and lots of shopping.

 

 

Portlandians love brunch and therefore on Sunday we brunched at Mother’s Bistro. At Mother’s, it’s made with Love.

 

We rode the trolley and got off in the Pearl District to shop at Powell’s City of Books, which covers a whole city block. OMGoodness. If anyone can bring back reading real physical books, it’s Powells.  We loved this store! It has more books than a library – they say a million. They sell new and used books because Powells buys back books, and they sell other cool stuff like cards, notebooks, t-shirts, bags and travel accessories. Can’t say enough about Powells.

May was a bit soon for peak rose season, but the Lan Su Chinese Garden downtown was an amazing alternative. It is a photographer’s paradise as the gardens were designed to create scenes framed within scenes and framed again. Beautiful and oddly peaceful for being right in the heart of the city.

 

 

 

 

The Teahouse in the Tower of Cosmic Reflections offers tea and snacks if you decide to just stay, meditate and enjoy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As part of a city tour, we were brought up to the top of the medical district where we took an aerial tram ride down to the waterfront. The Oregon Health and Science University campus has grown so large that they operate two campus’ connected by the aerial tram.

The tram is free if you ride it from the Marquam Hill neighborhood down to the South Waterfront. So if you can get someone to drive you up to the top….it’s a cool panoramic vista at the upper station.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stephen Stills & Judy Blue Eyes Collins

 

 

We were very fortunate to snag tickets to a sold out Stephen Stills & Judy Collins concert at Revolution Hall. Revolution is a old high school that has been converted into a 850 seat performing arts venue with a rooftop bar and another bar right off the main floor seating area. It was intimate, had great acoustics, and Judy’s voice was amazing as ever as she hit the high notes in Both Sides Now.  Definitely check out the Revolution Hall website for the calendar of events if you will be in town.

The Eagles were scheduled to play at the Moda Center, home of the Portland Trailblazers, but unfortunately rescheduled. There are many concerts and events at Moda, so check their events calendar if you’re coming to town.

Our week was full of winery and city tours, an excursion to Mount Hood and the Gorge, and a historic concert. We packed so much into six days that Portland could be the topic of many blog posts and we definitely plan to visit again soon.

Stay tuned for some serious wine tasting and beautiful Oregon scenery.

I wonder how hubs will top this week when my birthday rolls around?  C’est tout!

Outer Banks Adventure

In 2017 we planned a September getaway to visit my son in Durham and thought a beach visit to the Outer Banks with both of our boys would be fun since we were so close to the Atlantic. The Outer Banks is a 200 mile run of barrier islands off the coast of North Carolina, and a popular family vacation destination with plentiful beaches, state parks and shipwreck diving sites.  Sun, sand and seafood. We’re in!

We drove Chicago to Durham as we had a few places to check out along the way, and we have a pretty comfy fun car, so not a problem.  Kitty Hawk is almost an additional 4 hours drive from Durham, stopping of course for lunchtime sustenance which makes everyone happier.

Three of my favorite boys

 

The drive to the Outer Banks was interesting as we drove through the towns on US64E, over the Alligator River and the Croatan Sound. The dashboard display indicated we were under sea level so I expected a wave to overtake us any minute.

 

 

 

Our first stop on the Outer Banks was the Wright Brothers National Memorial US National Park at Kill Devil Hills.  It is the location of the Wright Brothers’ aviation experiments from 1900 to 1903.  Wilbur and Orville Wright came here from Dayton, Ohio based on information from the U.S. Weather Bureau about the area’s steady winds, which we can attest to.

Memorial Tower on Kill Devil Hill

 

 

Walking paths lead up to the Memorial Tower.

The clouds were amazingly fluffy and beautiful on the day we visited and it was welcome to walk around the park after our driving adventure.  It was windy and totally flat, and felt like we were walking on an airport lawn, which I guess we were.  

 

 

 

 

The visitors center is under renovation 2016 to Fall 2018 to incorporate interactive exhibits, but there is much to enjoy outdoors exploring the grounds and reproductions of the brothers’ 1903 camp buildings. You can stand at the place where Wilbur and Orville Wright first took to the air in their 1903 flyer and landed, and climb Big Kill Devil Hill to see the nation’s monument commemorating the brothers’ historic achievement. You can also take in an interpretive program on the brothers, examine replicas of the 1902 glider and the 1903 flyer, and see portraits of other famous aviators.

Rail from original flight experiments

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had hotel reservations to overnight at the Hilton Garden Inn Kitty Hawk right on the water and across the street from Duck Donuts.

In the evening, we walked along the soft sand beach…poking in the sand and shells, and cavorting in the waves. 

Coffee in hand, early the next morning we watched the sunrise.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After much coffee and a bite of healthy breakfast at the hotel, we wandered across the street to Duck Donuts to see what all the hype was about.

We had purposely saved a little room for a doughy treat.  Ordinarily I do not go out of my way for a donut, but I read about Duck Donuts’ maple bacon donuts with real bacon.  They make each donut to order right there so they are warm and wonderful and put whatever topping you desire on top. We bought a box of 6 for 4 people and shared. The maple bacon are a must and the chocolate flip flops were a hit too. They are actually light so you could eat a couple…

Our two sons are 30ish and we wanted to plan a unique activity they might enjoy, so we booked a two hour Hummer dunes tour with Wild Horse Adventure Tours.  They are located just about a half hour north of Kitty Hawk in Corolla.

Our visit was in September so it was windy and chilly, but Wild Horse provided Native American blankets to keep us warm when the adrenaline wasn’t pumping.  The tour guide whirled us onto pristine beaches that are accessible only with a 4×4 off-road vehicle. Our guide was quick witted, funny, and interesting, providing a constant stream of commentary about history and ecology. It was quite an exhilarating adventure with ocean breezes, salty air, up and down beaches, dunes and forest trails.

We all enjoyed the exciting excursion searching for the wild horses and spotted quite a few horses, a coyote, other wildlife, and of course a few humans driving non-4×4 vehicles, stuck in the sand.  Just a fun morning.


Since were were at the shore, we did want to enjoy as much seafood as possible, so we stopped for lunch at I Got Your Crabs Shelfish Market and Oyster Bar in Kitty Hawk.

I got your Crabs was #1 on TripAdvisor for seafood, and I always check TripAdvisor for the best recommendations. We were not disappointed. The servers were attentive, friendly and helpful. My son and I both ordered the soft shell crab plate with hush puppies, hubs had the crab cake sandwich with waffle fries, and other son had the chicken sandwich. Everyone was very happy with their food. Pretty large portions, and all fresh. We were checking out the live crabs and the chef took one out to show us and tell us about them. Interesting and delicious.

After this brief seashore interlude, it was time to head back to Durham for more exploration of Bull City….C’est tout!

Bayeux, The Heart of Normandy

Bayeux is not situated in the south of France, so one does not visit here for blinding sunshine and lounging on the beaches. The average high in June is 64 F, skyrocketing all the way to 69 in August before it starts dipping back down, with a possibility of a grey day or sudden showers. Perhaps it’s global warming?

But yes, we do come for the beaches – Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno, and Sword.  We visit for remembrance of June 6, 1944, D-Day, and all of the history, reliving and celebrating The Liberation, and the courageous men and women who made it happen.

While our focus is D-Day, tired at the end of the day from exploring all of the magnificent military sites, it’s a good plan to regroup in a welcoming home away from home in a lovely little French town.  Bayeux is perfectly situated to provide an excellent home base for touring the nearby historic WWII sites. It is one of the only cities to escape bombing and destruction during WWII and is known as the first major town secured by the Allies during Operation Overlord.

We have stayed in Bayeux for each our visits to Normandy, and can attest to it’s beauty and tranquility, lodging and restaurants.

One of our two recommendations for lodging is historic Hotel Churchill where the halls are decorated with extraordinary black and white photos of WWII, Band of Brothers, and other army material.

One memorable birthday visit at Hotel Churchill, future-hubby had arranged flowers, card and presents.  Madame de l’hôtel hid his roses in the back room overnight and then surprised us both with the flowers and a wonderful Joyeux Anniversaire brioche cake at breakfast which we shared with all of the other guests.

 

Hotel Churchill is situated  downtown, steps from the picturesque watermills, just a block or so from the famous tapestry for which Bayeux is best known.

 

 

The 11th century tapestry is 230 feet long of embroidered wool on linen, and depicts the scenes of the Norman Conquest in 50 different panels. It currently resides at Musée de la Tapisserie de Bayeux.  

Bayeux Cathedral

 

 

 

 

The cloth’s original home was the Bayeux Cathedral where you will find beautiful murals and crypts.   Both of these sites are worth a visit in your downtime.

As well, Le Mont Saint Michel UNESCO World Heritage Site is approximately 2-1/4 hours drive from Bayeux.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are many lovely spots downtown to stop for un café.  Rain or shine, coffee makes every day better.

We try to plan a visit to include a weekend in Bayeux as every Saturday morning, rain or shine, residents and visitors alike flock to la Place Saint Patrice for the bustling weekly market.

The scents of grilling sausages, meat, and paella will draw you near.  Is it time for lunch?

 

 

 

 

 

 

The photo opportunities are endless at the market.

Succulent tomatoes…

…and energetic Jack Russells

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunday dinner?

Domes of nougat – pistache!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To find the market, just follow the steady stream of housewives meandering down the sidewalk with empty market baskets.

The walk through town reveals beautiful old timbered buildings, doorways, and flowers…


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Industrious bees

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Le Bon Vie does not live by photos alone.  Let there be wine, cheese and pain! or bread…let there be many lovely French baguettes!  Cave-Bistrot Le Volet qui Penche  is rated one of the top ten restaurants in Bayeux, right in the middle of downtown on the water and one of our very favorites.  We would dine here each evening if it was open.  Recommended as a wine cave for charcuterie, they have fresh entrées, an extensive wine collection, and friendly knowledgeable sommelier, who also has a wine stall at the Saturday market…how convenient.

Another new favorite Bayeux B&B…Clos de Bellefontaine Guesthouse. It is an enchanting maison with the host family living in one side of the home, and the guest rooms with a separate entrance off a lovely yard and patio. There are two guest suites with modern bathrooms, one on each upper floors, with drawing room and breakfast room on first floor. Breakfasts are generous with many homemade choices. Carole, the hostess, is friendly and accommodating, a great chef, homemaker, and artist in her spare time. Parking is in the enclosed secure gated yard, and Clos is walking distance from shops  and restaurants. We had a comfortable weeklong stay in the cosy yet elegant rooms. It was wonderful to relax in the drawing room at end of day with a book and snack or aperitif, and sometimes meet the other guests, and Marcel, the resident Jack Russell.

Everything is better with coffee,  wine, and a Jack Russell.  Happy travels. C’est tout!