Monthly Archives: September 2018

Norway in a Nutshell Adventure

We woke up early on our fourth day in country to continue on our Norway excursion, and to catch the 6:25 Bergen train. Our Norway In A Nutshell began gray and rainy, and very grateful to be warm and cosy on the train instead of sightseeing Oslo. The train passed through the scenic terrain west, through little towns built along the railway, and the fjords. It was about a 5-1/2 hour trip to the town of Myrdal, where we disembarked to wait for the legendary Flåm Railway train.

Myrdal 866,8 meters over sea level (for comparison, Chicago is 181 meters over sea level)

We descended onto a platform with 360 degree mountain views, and a misty rain. Much colder in Flåm, we quickly pulled out puffy coats for the 40 minute wait. Passengers paced back and forth across the platform with their luggage, trying to determine the best place to stand.

When the bright green Flåmsbana train showed up, everyone jostled to board quickly. The seats were not reserved, and a window seat is preferred for the scenery to come. Our itinerary stated this ride offers spectacular panoramic views to some of the wildest and most magnificent nature in the Norwegian fjord landscape. Not an exaggeration, there were also flat screened monitors to provide clues of what you were about to experience, and a pre-recorded narration as well. Besides a few tiny station stops for locals, our first stop was a large platform where everyone disembarked for the Kjosfossen Waterfall. This waterfall is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Norway, with a total fall of around 738 ft. There is a small power station on the waterfall used to power the Flåm Line railway. During the stop, an actress dressed as Huldra (a seductive forest creature in Scandinavian folklore), dances and sings in front of the waterfall. When everyone had their fill of photos, we climbed back to our seats and continued the journey.

Hulda – click below for video

 

 

The Flåmsbana chugged on for almost an hour, past scenic panoramas, waterfalls, and colorful housing enclaves, before we reached the town of Flåm. The train slowed down for a view of the main town with the church on its way to the Flåm harbor.

Flåm, Norway – population 350

 

 

Plus one very photogenic horse

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flåm harbor is is where the action is, and where you are held captive until the next leg of your journey. The harbor is a beehive of activity and tourists; home to the Mall of Norway, restaurants, tourist office, cruise and ferry line docking, a little red tourist train, Flam Railway MuseumFjord Safari rib boat tours, a hotel, a park, and more shopping.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Social media starved tourists taking birdie photos

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had booked the Bergen Express Boat to ferry us 10 minutes up the Aurslandsfjorden to the Vangsgaarden Gjestgiveri hotel in Aursland for the evening. The customizable Norway in a Nutshell tour can be completed in less than a day, but we broke up the trip so that we could relax, explore, and engage in a few activities.  The express boat schedule left us with a couple hours to to entertain ourselves at Flåm Harbor, so we dropped off our rollers and backpacks at the luggage hut, enjoyed a grilled sausage lunch on the patio, took photos, and shopped.

People start lining up for the express boat about a half hour before boarding time, queueing in order to  get the best seat. We were only cruising for 10 minutes, but we snagged the front two seats by the door, which we later bequeathed to the friendly elderly couple sitting behind us.

 

We chatted with the cheerful boat staff, who inquired about our plans. Engaging powerful bow thrusters, the boat barely slowed down in Aursland. The crew dropped the gang plank, and with a hearty farewell, deposited us on the deserted pier.

Aurland pier and ferry stop

 

Maps.me showed us the way to Vangsgaarden Giestgiveri hotel just a few blocks away. Again I was reminded it’s best to pack light. Most every town in Norway seems cobbled or hilly or both.  If I could pack just a backpack, I would…but shoes happen.

We could not have chosen a more perfect hotel for a break. Vangsgaarden Giestgiveri is historic, charming, and recently remodeled with cozy rooms, great views, comfortable beds, and an interesting collection of cottages, buildings, and lawn areas.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

View from our room

 

 

 

 

living room

 

Breakfast room

One of the resident kitties prowling for attention

Reception

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before dinner we took a little walk around town, through the lovely churchyard and down to the river.

No quarters needed for a reindeer ride

Skipping rocks…

Vangen Church

After walking around the grounds and town, we were ready for an early dinner. Duehaset Pub opens at six, so like the other eager, parched guests, we queued up promptly at opening, just steps from the hotel front door. The patio was open with a magnificent view of the fjord, built in heaters, and a retractable roof.

Toasting our good fortune at Duehaset Pub

 

 

Birthday month dessert – keep them coming

Norwegian salmon – yum!

 

 

After a tasty dinner, a well deserved night of quiet peaceful sleep, and a Norwegian buffet breakfast, we were rested and ready for the next day of adventures on the fjords.

Aabelheim Breakfast House

 

C’est tout!

 

Ancestral Visit to Historic Fredrikstad Norway

Being an avid genealogist, I am eager to claim ancestors worldwide for both myself and my husband. We enjoy visiting different countries to explore history and culture, and to imagine where and how our relatives lived. In celebration of a significant birthday this year, we booked a September trip to Norway in order to discover my Scandinavian roots.

After landing in Oslo, and a quick trip on the Flytoget to the city, we settled in for a couple nights at a Thon Hotel within walking distance from Central Station. Lovely and comfortable, the hotel offered free breakfast at a Michelin recommended restaurant and a dinner buffet, welcome in a country where dining is known to be expensive.

Our first full day in Norway was a planned ancestry expedition to Fredrikstad, from where my great grandparents emigrated in the 1800’s. Fredrikstad is approximately 1 hour south of Oslo by train. It is the main city in Ostfold county, and is currently the fifth largest in Norway. Fredrikstad was built at the mouth of the Glomma River as a replacement city, after Sarpsborg (upstream) was burnt down by the Swedish Army in the 1500s.

We arrived at the city centre on the west bank of the Glomma River just in time to enjoy a delightful birthday lunch at Restaurant Slippen, arranged my thoughtful husband.

 

After toasting with Sancerre, and dining on oysters and fresh seafood, we walked across the bridge to the free ferry that would motor us down to the fortified old town on the east bank. It was a charming journey down the Gamma, viewing the many boats harbored along the way.

 

The Old town in Fredrikstad is a much-visited sight, as it is one of the best preserved fortified towns in the Nordic region.  It was constructed according to Dutch architectural models, with wide, water-filled moats and high earth ramparts. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fredrikstad Ferry Stop

 

We walked the cobbled streets, enjoyed the architecture, and stopped in the tourism office for a chat, where the clerk educated us in local history. When Sarpsborg was burned down by the Swedish Army in the 1500’s, King Frederick II decreed a new town be built and named after himself in a better location. This is the current day Old Town. She assured us the Swedish are fine now; They love the Norwegians. We promised ourselves to do more research on Scandinavian history as Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Finland, and Iceland all seem to have intertwined pasts, conflicts, and rulers.

The old town quarter of Fredrikstad has 350 inhabitants today. It seems a quiet community, although filled with art galleries, unique shops, the Fredrikstad Museum, historic church, and many opportunities to enjoy a meal, a bottle of wine, or coffee.  Here you can also visit Gamlebyen Miniature Railroad, the largest model railroad exhibition in Scandinavia.

Tourism Bureau

 

 

 

 

 

 

Østre Fredrikstad Church, The Old Town – rebuilt 1779

Gamlebyen Kulturhus cafe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

King Frederick II of Denmark 1534-1588

 

 

Cafe Lattes and caramel apple pie at Cafe Magenta

 

 

 

 

 

 

We soon found ourselves in the courtyard of Cafe Magenta and could not resist a homemade treat. Fortified with caffeine and caramel apple pie, we continued to meander the Fredrikstad Fortress area which was constructed between 1663 and 1666. The only time the fortress was attacked was during the 1814 Swedish–Norwegian War.

 

 

The fortress closed in 1903, but continued to serve as a garrison until the remaining military installations in Fredrikstad were closed in 2002. It is unique by being the only fortress that is preserved as it was in Norway. The mix of old buildings and art exhibitions is photogenic and provides an interesting stroll back in time.

 

 

 

Being early September, the town was lovely, although a little gray and quiet. Children had returned to school and fall was in the air. All too soon it was time to leave this historic town with worn cobbles, narrow streets and impressive buildings as we continued our Norwegian adventure…C’est tout!