Author Archives: KathyMac

About KathyMac

~~Kathy Mac is an avid traveler, eagerly exploring the world. This blog is dedicated to travel adventures, food, wine, photography, and culture, but most of all inspiration to just pack a bag. ~The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page.

Digging into the past in with Agatha Christie in Old Montreal

st PatricksAs our December visit to Montreal comes to an end, I ventured forth with my trusty camera for photographic evidence of the holidays…but then was distracted by the past and an old friend.    Agatha Christie

 

 

 

 

 

 

Walking along the waterfront in Old Montreal, I came upon a new exhibit entitled In the footsteps of Agatha Christie at Pointe-à-Callière museum.  Très excitant!

Agatha Christie has always been one of my favorite authors and earlier just this spring I read The Grand Tour: Around the World with the Queen of Mystery.   This particular book is a travelogue of her yearlong trip around the British Empire in 1922 with her first husband, and contains letters and photos from her travels.  Interesting side note, Agatha Christie is the most widely published author of all time, outsold only by the Bible and Shakespeare.

The Pointe-à-Callière Museum is the only major archeology museum in Canada, and caters to interest children as well as adults. There is much more to see here than this one exhibit, but time was limited, so I concentrated on digging into my favorite mystery writer’s life.

The Pointe-à-Callière exhibition is presented in French and English and runs through April 2016. Photos were not allowed except in the gift shop, but that was good for me, as I then took my time to drink it all in.

If you are familiar with Agatha Christie, you know of her interest in archeology as well of her archeological adventures with her second husband, Sir Max Mallowan. Max was a prominent British archaeologist specialising in ancient Middle Eastern history. At least half of this exhibit highlights this part of Agatha’s life in previously unshared artifacts, black and white films, audio recordings, notebooks and photos, from the Christie Archive Trust and her grandson. The other half of the exhibit shows the writer and her personal life, and also has many personal artifacts and huge larger than life photos of Agatha.

The exhibit presents how she incorporated her travel and experiences, and even her favorite dog into some of her novels. It was all terribly interesting darling, and makes me wish I could curl up in front of the fire with one of her books and a cup of tea. I do love Miss Marple and Hercule Poirot, and wish I could have met the Agatha in person. Sometimes living in the past seems wonderful…in the meantime, it will have to be books, photographs and movies that take me there.

Looking into the past in Montreal…C’est tout.

railsquare philliphidden gardenCentre d'histoire clocktower

look into the past

Habitat 67

Montreal abandoned rail

Montreal’s festive holiday markets (Marché de Noël)

ice sculptureThe weeks leading up to Christmas are a fantastic time to explore downtown Montreal. Having recently spent three months living near Old Montreal, I was excited to travel back this week to visit the Christmas markets, or Marché de Noël as they are known in Quebec.

Today while walking over to Rue Ste-Catherine for a little retail therapy, I came across a pop up Marché de Noël in the square above Place Ville Marie, complete with Christmas trees, ice sculpture, and scattered comfortable Adirondack chairs covered in cozy (faux) fur throws.

fur accoutrement

Place Ville Marie is an underground shopping mall connected to the underground city, located across the street from the Fairmont Queen Elizabeth hotel. The Fairmont is the site of the Beaver Club, and many famous celebrity guests have stayed there.  Probably the most celebrated of all, John Lennon, held his ‘bed-in’ here in 1969, where the song Give Peace a Chance was written and recorded. As well, the Fairmont has a unique gift shop worth exploring and the BEST high tea, but that’s another story.

Back to the Marché…one of my favorite pâtisserie/boulangeries – bar à beurre, has a booth with samples of their yummy cookies and candies, and mason jars of the same for sale as gifts, and their signature shopping bags.  bar à beurre literally translates to butter bar…hmmm, no wonder their cupcakes and cookies are so wonderful.

bread

There is a artisanal bread booth, and a cheese and sausages booth, perfect for gift baskets…walk faster you little weight watcher!

les chocolats de chloe

But alas, I was caught up at the chocolate booth, Les Chocolats de Chloé.  I met lovely Chloé herself, luring in customers with her wonderful cocoa treats.  I guess a few bars for stocking stuffers would be okay…if I just can forget they are packed in the suitcase.

raplapla

Raplapla sells handmade dolls and animals to cuddle…so soft, and they have a doll hospital to repair your treasures.

Boucle & Papier  papeterie boutique had many fun gifts…. artisan stationary and labels and soft little handmade zipper bags…oh my. So many cute things.

relax

 

 

 

 

 

 

I love that the Christmas markets boast artisanal wares and unique gifts from boutiques, and am looking forward to treasure hunting tomorrow.

Joyeux Noël!  C’est tout! 

Sucrerie de la Montagne: Sugar Shack Supreme

16 fireplaceVacationing for a few months in Montreal, we plan to make the most of every festival, concert or attraction the city has to offer. With Montreal as our home base, there are many beautiful towns we can drive to in Quebec or Ontario within a few hours, and I would love to share those with you.

It’s certainly a change to live in the city and to be able to walk everywhere or hop the metro, after spending most of our lives jumping in the car to drive to work, shopping, or for a coffee. Living downtown, we are getting more exercise and that’s great, and hopefully a justifiable excuse to try a lot of local Québécois specialities…over and over again.

So yesterday, John offered a field trip in the car. Yes! Excited as a Jack Russell when he hears the leash, I immediately responded in the affirmative.  John had planned a surprise trip to a historic Québécois sugar shack. I imagined a family entertainment type maple syrup tapping activity, filled with kids, pumpkins and caramel apples. Aux contraire. This French Canadian maple grove is so much more. Sucrerie de la Montagne is about an hours drive west of downtown Montreal near Rigaud, Quebec. The literal translation is candy mountain so I knew good things were in store.

Per their advertisement, La Sucrerie is designated an official “Site du Patrimoine Québécois” or Québec Heritage site.  The sugar shack is located in the middle of a 120-acre forest of century-old maples atop Mont Rigaud and transports visitors back in time to a momentary glimpse of life as it was for Québec and Canadian pioneers.

Although the Sucrerie de la Montagne sign was missing at the road, we knew we had arrived when we saw two huge Belgian horses being harnessed to a wagon.

2 charming cabin

Walking up the main path towards delicious smoky fire smells, we passed a number of rustic wooden cabins that we later found were rentable accommodations, as well as a few cabins designated as general store, sucrerie and boulangerie. Things were looking even better!

4 caban

 

3 caban

Soon we found ourselves in front of a smokey fire pit across from the main barn. I can imagine it packed with visitors on a crisp afternoon, sitting around the fire drinking hot toddies and watching the brilliant leaves fall.

1 Sucrerie

We explored the outbuildings and met the baker in the boulangerie as he was getting ready to fire up the wood stoves to bake fresh country bread. Once inside the main barn, we found ourselves in a homey reception area filled with authentic wood stoves, a huge rustic bar, and old family photos. We were greeted by Stefan, son of Pierre Faucher. Stefan, like his father, has impressive hair and beard, and dresses as a traditional Québécois pioneer. He is friendly, attentive and an all around fantastic host, checking each table numerous times to make sure diners are happy and well fed, making suggestions, and later providing entertainment and tours.

The first order of business for us was lunch. The Sucrerie offers a traditional hearty Québécois menu. We had not fasted in preparation or cut a few cords of wood to work up a lumberjack’s appetite, so we chose a few items à la carte at Stefan’s suggestion.  We enjoyed the Mountaineer’s pea soup, fresh bread, pancakes (similar to crepes and perfect for soaking up their thick maple syrup), crispy back bacon, maple bière…and SUGAR pie – oh my!  Everything we had was fresh, delicious and mighty tasty. We know that we will be back to try the rest of the menu. It was just that good.

7 pea soup

8 crispee

9 bread

11 maple biere

10 pancakes

12 sugar pie

6 l'erable

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La Grande Motte, Round Trip to the Sea

La Grande Motte is a popular seaside resort and port in southern France in the Languedoc-Roussillon region.

entrance beach

Over 2,000,000 tourists descend upon the area in the summer no doubt because of their beautiful sand beaches that slope gently into the sea.  The white sand extends for about 7 kilometers.

behind

We visited in early June and enjoyed the warmish bathing waters and the wide open pristine sand beach. Le Grand Patron is not a beach person with his fair Scottish-Canadian freckled skin, but he is amenable to sunscreen and a swim shirt for protection. The weather was fantastic and the water, as I said warm enough for us to frolic and cool down on the sand bars while the waves of the Mediterranean broke over us.

white sandThe sky was cerulean blue and the sea a darker shade, accented against the white sand –  memory making view.

 

 

blue water

 

 

 

 

as far as the eye can see

 

 

 

 

 

 

There is free parking no more than 600 meters away from the beach and all of the development is away from the beach itself. That being said, there are ice cream & Diet Coke boys that push their motorized carts up and down the beach to ensure happy children and hydrated moms…and a couple men balancing trays of hamburgers on their heads as they walked up and down hawking their wares.

ice cream man

 

 

 

 

 

 

hamburger guy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We planned to have a light déjeuner and were delighted to find Le Voile Bleue Beach Club directly on the beach near our access point, with local huîtres on the menu. Loving summer!

huitres la grand motte

wine is light

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we were enjoying the sun and the sand and the water, I realized it is almost (but not yet) forty years since high school graduation (shocking). Tradition at my high school was senior ditch day the Friday before graduation. All the seniors would ditch school and drive to the Michigan dunes. It was about an hour and a half drive and some of us would go for the day, some for the whole weekend, but you just had to go even, if you hitchhiked. So my friends and I loaded up the car for the weekend and we went with tradition. Great fun, the beach, the sun, driving back and forth to see who else was there, some shenanigans, and of course some drama.

Senior year of high school, all you can think about is the rest of your life: big decisions, what is next, college, jobs, what will I be, leaving home, becoming independent, staying friends, finding new friends, finding significant others, and all those other thoughts rambling around causing ripples and whirlpools.

So here I am (almost) 40 years later again at the beach staring at the sand dunes. No worries, no Marlboro Lights, the wine is chilled and being enjoyed at a nice beach club.

sailboat parasailing 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I went to school, found jobs, stayed friends with my forever friends, married, raised two fantastic kids, had a career, worked, bought, remodeled and sold houses, found the love of my life, traveled, retired, and traveled some more.  And now here I am again at the beach, thankful for everyone and everything in my life, my experiences…thinking about what is to come.  Almost full circle. It’s time to start a second circle.

 

monkey

Wonderful thoughts…free to plan and do more fun things with my husband and best friend. More travel, more time to spend keeping our bodies young and brains active, cycling, reading, photography, writing, creating, more time to spend with all of of our friends, kids and now grandkids.

delicate boybeach July 1stJohn swimming

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had such a great time at the beach in June, we came back again for one more visit in July. It was every bit as gorgeous the second trip. Enjoy the photos. Hope you start a new circle…C’est Tout!

just take me out to the sea

 

Vaison-La-Romaine, Another Provençal Gem

Vaison-La-Romaine is about an hour drive northeast from our home base in L’Isle Sur La Sorgue. With a few days left in Provence, we decided to venture out for a visit to this one of 100 Plus Beaux Villages de France.

Almost to our destination, we passed Malaucène. It was an inviting and charming town and a cycling mecca at the foot of Mont Ventoux. There were quite a few bike stores and cafés, so I am sure will be back to visit someday.

Tuesday is market day in Vaison-La-Romaine. One of us was surprised with that information, perhaps under the assumption that we were avoiding shopping. We arrived just in time for a patio lunch in the main square, with misters to ward off the heat, music, and une pression bière for Le Grand Patron. Merci beaucoup LGP for navigating us on one more Provençal adventure. The market was huge but the sun was hot, and the vendors were starting to take down their stands. Nonetheless, we found un pain ancienne and two luscious ripe and wonderful heirloom tomatoes to take home for dinner…their fate to be flavored with sea salt, basilic olive oil and basil leaves. Miam miam!


 

 

 

 

 

 

Fortified with salads and cold drinks, we ventured into the sun to hike to the medieval city across the Roman bridge, which is incidentally over 2000 years old. Across the bridge, we were faced with an impressive WWI and WWII military memorial dedicated to the sons of Vaison-La-Romaine.

Since we enjoyed an American length déjeuner, it was still a time of rest for the residents of Ville Médiévale. We climbed the quiet streets, interrupted only by the droning of the cicadas and a few camera laden tourists determined to make it to the top and the 12th Century Chateau despite the heat.





 


Besides the Ville Médiévale, there is an archeological site of preserved Roman ruins, wine tastings, Provençal cooking classes, cycling, and many shops and restaurants. Vaison-La-Romaine is certainly a destination where we could spend a few days on les vacances.  C’est Tout!

 

Sault Market and A Cycling Star

Sault is an old fortified village situated high atop a ridge overlooking a wide valley, with many lavendar fields spread out like purple patches on a summer quilt. patchwork lavendar

This amazing countryside is northeast of Villes sur Auzon where we had experienced a wine-cycling tour last week. It is also very close to the Gorges de la Nesque were we picnicked another day. Each time we drive back to this area, the lavendar is more in bloom and intense in hue.

L'Etoile cycle

bile sign

We knew we wanted to come back at least one more time this Provençal visit so Le Grimpeur could climb all those glorious Ventoux hills on a bike, and me for the lavendar and a little shopping. We planned a Wednesday visit when the Sault market could entertain me while John cycled. In the 18th and 19th centuries Sault was the center of an important glass industry. There are no glass works today, but the weekly market continues as it has since since 1515…and that’s good enough for me.cycle shop

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We found a brand new cycle shop just a km or two out of Sault, so we called ahead to rent a road bike.  L’Etoile Du Ventoux (The Star of Ventoux) had just opened for business and John rented their first road bike. They offered a brand new Fondriest 19-speed as well as new clip shoes right out of the box. John cycled up Col de la Ligne (altitude 756 meters) twice and was pleased to ride 60 kilometers.

sault market

dream of anna

Artisa

While John was cycling, I explored the village armed with camera and shopping sac. There are so many wonderful markets every day in Provence, but with limited luggage space, if I purchase something, I prefer fabricated in France or something fantastic that cannot be found at home. The markets are filled with fresh, colorful and delicious produce, soaps, oils, wine, bread, fromage, flowers, clothes, linens, bags and nougat to name a few. I like to check out the artisinal shops as well that sometimes are overlooked with the market stalls blocking them…and sometimes I am just delighted with some photos.

The proprietress at Art’Isa sits at the counter hand-painting her porcelain ware.sault towersault kitty 2 pretty Sault doorholleyhocksmore lavendarsolaire

The village is open and large with many squares and cafés and panoramic overlooks to the Ventoux mountain range, and the Plateau de Vaucluse spread out across the south.

Just a few kilometers out of the village to the southwest are the deep canyons of the Gorges de la Nesque. gorge de la nesque

 

 

 

 

gorges 2

 

When John had cycled as much as he wanted, I picked him up and we drove part of his route to go back and enjoy the scenery and the lavendar fields up close. They smell delicious!

brilliant lavendar

kathy and lavendarlavendar & goldenrod

 

 

C’est Tout!

Ménerbes, Peter Mayle’s Captivating Hill Town

weather MenerbesProvencal weather today was delightful, sunny and blue skies, but cool and a little windy. A day trip to Peter Mayle’s Ménerbes, seemed just the ticket. There is a grand wine co op at the top of the village that we had visited before with friends and beautiful views out into the vineyards, but I particularly remembered approaching the town via Rue de la Fontaine which is lined with gorgeous shady plane trees.  The first charming building across from the parking lot is
La Vie Est Belle. We stopped to view the wares and to speak with the owner. John found a cave in the rear of this historic shop that was up to his standards of a true man cave. Lots of eclectic things to acquire…and an inviting patio.

chairs La Vie Est Belle

We made our way to the top of the village, stopping to take photos of whatever caught our fancy and checked out the store at
Maison De La Truffe et du Vin du Luberon.

It was very quiet for a Saturday, and today we seemed to be attracted to doors…symbolic? Hope, opportunity, opening, passage from one state or world to another, entrance to new life…retirement and new beginnings….

Menerbes secret garden

Kathy Menerbes
another secret garden Continue reading

Adventure in the Ventoux Vineyards

Villes sur Auzon entrance to town

He had me at moped and wine…and lunch clinched the deal.  My husband has been throwing about the idea of a moped wine tour for a bit, and just came upon an ad for Real adventure in the Ventoux vineyards!

wine tasting Flasson

Husband from this point on may be referred to as Le Grand Patron as we are trying out nom de guerres for him. Today he feels like the big boss, which I guess makes me La Petite Patron, but we’ll see, it may just be his unrivaled success in planning this adventure…now back to the wine story.

Le Patron had us up early today to reach
Cave TerraVentoux in Villes sur Auzon by 9 am for our mythical ride on an E-Moped. As it turned out, there were a group of people signed up today and the transportation of choice was electric-bikes, which I found are just as wonderful as mopeds, especially in the hilly Mount Ventoux terrain after tasting generous glasses of wine.

cerises on the tree

After being sized up for bicycles and meeting our delightful guides, Ann, Suzy, Gabrielle and Tomas, we were off as a group of about a dozen, or douzaine as they say.
les cerises

The first stop was a cherry farm (ferme cerise) where we liberally tasted ripe cherries off the trees and met the farmer and his quality control staff. Each cherry is hand picked off the trees and sorted for quality. There has been a lot of rain lately and not enough wind, resulting in the cherries cracking a bit. So these sweet cerises were available for us to munch as much as we desired, since they would not make it to market.

cherry picking

 

cerises

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomas

Back on the bikes, we cycled higher to Flassan, a quiet little village of about 400 inhabitants.  By now it was late morning and time for our first tasting which was a feast for the eyes as well as the tongue. Tomas was waiting for us and had set up the glasses at the village fountain. This stop we tasted Terres De Truffles by Terraventoux, along with an amuse bouche of slivers of soft bread topped with fromage chèvre and Acacia honey drizzle. Delicious!

 

Terres De Truffles is of the AOC Ventoux classification and made with Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Viognier grapes. Impressive information, right? That’s because it was so good, we bought a couple bottles and I can read the label here in the comfort of our home away from home.

Flassan fountain

On we cycled in the shadow of Mount Ventoux, which if you are familiar with Tour de France, is a very high and difficult mountain stage and usually alternated in the Tour with Alpes D’Huez on one of the mountain days. Ventoux blue sky

We stopped here and there for lessons on agriculture and discussed the winemaker’s co op which includes approximately 600 hectares of vines. Eventually we found ourselves stopping in a small sandy clearing in a cutout of a vineyard.  Everyone was instructed to lock their bikes to each other’s, so we had a mass of a dozen bicycles attached. No one was leaving this party if anyone lost their key. We hiked down a leafy sandy path, over tree limbs and rocks, where the sand reminded us of the Roussillon ocre. Soon we found ourselves in a clearing where Tomas was again waiting for us with another picnic table covered with delights.
ocre hideaway repartWe found four more TerraVentoux wines, a Rosé and 3 reds, as well as jambon, saucisses, local artisinal pâtes, four cheeses, and more cherries…oh my. Only chocolat was missing from this feast.
fromage cave terraventouxThe reds were light for pairing with summer foods and whereas I mostly turn to whites, I thoroughly enjoyed the red tastings and Le Patron picked up a bottle of his favorite, Château Bonadona 2012, which is a Grenache-Syrah. While the tour was mainly in French as the other guests were Swiss, Tomas and Gabrielle both spoke excellent English and would stop here and there to speak with us about other topics. Tomas is an intern with the winery and working on his Masters in Hospitality, so we discussed sustainable tourism. ocre hideaway 2The canyon where we had our picnic was on private vintner property. It was carved by a stream running through the ocre sand over time and then the stream was diverted for agriculture, leaving the canyon in it’s wake. Unfortunately, tourists and local youth have carved and defaced the walls, but rather than closing it to the public, the owner wants to leave it open for people to enjoy walking through the cool shade as he remembers doing in his youth. ocre stream bedAfter a lovely hour where we socialized with the other guests, we reluctantly trooped back up the path to sort out the transportation. This is where the electric bikes were most welcome as we still had quite a few hills to climb before finding our way back to the cave and wine shop. It was a relaxed drive back home through the winding road, full of sun, wine, and the good life.

 

our cottage

 

 

 

C’est tout!  Well done my Grand Patron.

 

Roussillon, Plus Beaux et Plus Ocre Village

Roussillon, the ocre-red village and one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France, is a tourist and artist destination on the southern edge of the Plateau de Vaucluse. We had last visited Roussillon in 2010 but had not tackled the ocre cliffs that time, so we started this adventure with the hike right out of the parking lot so that we would be fresh for the hour long trek.start

Ochre is a natural pigment in the sandy soil that makes up the cliffs around Roussillon. Iron oxides color shades with the sands ranging from yellow to purple. The mineral landscape today reflects the effects of erosion and mining work. Informational signs along the trail describe the geology, the flora and the history of the ocher deposits in the Luberon. ocre hike 4 ocre hike 3 ocre hike 2 ocre cliffs 2 ocre 7 ocre 5 Continue reading

Tour of the Armée de l’Air Base Aérienne 115 Orange-Caritat

We just had the opportunity to visit one of the French air force bases nearby to the village where we are staying. The French air force is referred to as Armée de l’Air. We found that they have a historical Armée de l’Air museum at the Base Aérienne 115 Orange-Caritat that civilians can visit with advance permission. John wrote to them with our personal information and we were approved within a few days to visit on a particular date, that being yesterday.  It was a short drive to the Orange area, although Madame GPS as usual likes to test our patience, directing us to the smallest country lanes as possible, quite frequently leaving us (read: me) breathless as the driver chooses between driving into a ditch or canal or losing a mirror or headlight to an oncoming speeding truck…but I digress.

After navigating around a road closure with no apparent detour route, and finding the actual air base with minimal signage and no address, because of course, why would top secret information such as location of the air base be readily available on the internet…we found our way to base and to the sentry post. Luckily John speaks French very well, and he quickly understood that we must back up out of the secure gated sentry post into the civilian parking lot to present our identity papers in exchange for our museum ID passes. air force paradise After we took care of paperwork, our guide Maurice, walked us through the park filled with one of each of the historical French Armée de l’Air aircraft.

 

Mirage IV Mysterefighter jet Continue reading