Category Archives: France

Bayeux, The Heart of Normandy

Bayeux is not situated in the south of France, so one does not visit here for blinding sunshine and lounging on the beaches. The average high in June is 64 F, skyrocketing all the way to 69 in August before it starts dipping back down, with a possibility of a grey day or sudden showers. Perhaps it’s global warming?

But yes, we do come for the beaches – Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno, and Sword.  We visit for remembrance of June 6, 1944, D-Day, and all of the history, reliving and celebrating The Liberation, and the courageous men and women who made it happen.

While our focus is D-Day, tired at the end of the day from exploring all of the magnificent military sites, it’s a good plan to regroup in a welcoming home away from home in a lovely little French town.  Bayeux is perfectly situated to provide an excellent home base for touring the nearby historic WWII sites. It is one of the only cities to escape bombing and destruction during WWII and is known as the first major town secured by the Allies during Operation Overlord.

We have stayed in Bayeux for each our visits to Normandy, and can attest to it’s beauty and tranquility, lodging and restaurants.

One of our two recommendations for lodging is historic Hotel Churchill where the halls are decorated with extraordinary black and white photos of WWII, Band of Brothers, and other army material.

One memorable birthday visit at Hotel Churchill, future-hubby had arranged flowers, card and presents.  Madame de l’hôtel hid his roses in the back room overnight and then surprised us both with the flowers and a wonderful Joyeux Anniversaire brioche cake at breakfast which we shared with all of the other guests.

 

Hotel Churchill is situated  downtown, steps from the picturesque watermills, just a block or so from the famous tapestry for which Bayeux is best known.

 

 

The 11th century tapestry is 230 feet long of embroidered wool on linen, and depicts the scenes of the Norman Conquest in 50 different panels. It currently resides at Musée de la Tapisserie de Bayeux.  

Bayeux Cathedral

 

 

 

 

The cloth’s original home was the Bayeux Cathedral where you will find beautiful murals and crypts.   Both of these sites are worth a visit in your downtime.

As well, Le Mont Saint Michel UNESCO World Heritage Site is approximately 2-1/4 hours drive from Bayeux.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are many lovely spots downtown to stop for un café.  Rain or shine, coffee makes every day better.

We try to plan a visit to include a weekend in Bayeux as every Saturday morning, rain or shine, residents and visitors alike flock to la Place Saint Patrice for the bustling weekly market.

The scents of grilling sausages, meat, and paella will draw you near.  Is it time for lunch?

 

 

 

 

 

 

The photo opportunities are endless at the market.

Succulent tomatoes…

…and energetic Jack Russells

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunday dinner?

Domes of nougat – pistache!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To find the market, just follow the steady stream of housewives meandering down the sidewalk with empty market baskets.

The walk through town reveals beautiful old timbered buildings, doorways, and flowers…


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Industrious bees

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Le Bon Vie does not live by photos alone.  Let there be wine, cheese and pain! or bread…let there be many lovely French baguettes!  Cave-Bistrot Le Volet qui Penche  is rated one of the top ten restaurants in Bayeux, right in the middle of downtown on the water and one of our very favorites.  We would dine here each evening if it was open.  Recommended as a wine cave for charcuterie, they have fresh entrées, an extensive wine collection, and friendly knowledgeable sommelier, who also has a wine stall at the Saturday market…how convenient.

Another new favorite Bayeux B&B…Clos de Bellefontaine Guesthouse. It is an enchanting maison with the host family living in one side of the home, and the guest rooms with a separate entrance off a lovely yard and patio. There are two guest suites with modern bathrooms, one on each upper floors, with drawing room and breakfast room on first floor. Breakfasts are generous with many homemade choices. Carole, the hostess, is friendly and accommodating, a great chef, homemaker, and artist in her spare time. Parking is in the enclosed secure gated yard, and Clos is walking distance from shops  and restaurants. We had a comfortable weeklong stay in the cosy yet elegant rooms. It was wonderful to relax in the drawing room at end of day with a book and snack or aperitif, and sometimes meet the other guests, and Marcel, the resident Jack Russell.

Everything is better with coffee,  wine, and a Jack Russell.  Happy travels. C’est tout!

Tranquil Painters’ Paradise in Giverny

Claude Monet has long been my favorite impressionist artist.  We tend to temper each visit to the beaches and museums of Normandy with a relaxing few hours enjoying the tranquil beauty of Claude’s final home in Giverny.

In 1883, Claude began by purchasing a farmhouse surrounded by an orchard, and initiated a vast landscaping project including lily ponds that would become the subjects of his best-known works.  Here the Father of French Impressionism adopted a method of painting the same scene many times in order to capture the change of light and the passing of the seasons.

In 1899 he began painting the water lilies, first in vertical views with a Japanese bridge as a central feature, and later in the series of large-scale paintings that was to occupy him continuously for the next 20 years of his life.

This peaceful paradise is much the same as it was when Claude Monet passed in 1826.  A visit is easy to include on a Parisian or Normandy itinerary as Giverny is located approximately an hour west of CDG airport and about two hours southeast of Bayeux, which we consider the heart of Normandy.

Each season at Giverny is a unique experience…different flowers,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sometimes sunny, sometimes gray, but always some violet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A lovely walk around the Water Garden,

and the Lily Pond.

early-June view from Monet’s bedroom

J’ai du bon tabac

la cuisine

After our visit among the gardens, it was time for a little shopping under the watchful eye

of le chat de garde,

Cozy tea time rendezvous

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

followed by a wood fire grilled lunch at Le Petit Giverny and un bouteille de vin.

À votre santé

J’aime la lumière quand pareille aux bouches sensuelles des modèles de Renoir elle donne au travers de l’olivier à la pelouse mille baisers.  -Claude Cambour

 

 

 

I love the light when like the sensual mouths of Renoir’s models she gives through the olive tree to the lawn a thousand kisses.

-Claude Cambour, peintre


 

 

C’est tout!

Remembering D-Day in Normandy, WWII Film Festival, and Canadian Sites

In the small rural towns in northern France, the first two weeks of June each year are a special time for remembrance, celebration of D-Day and liberation, and all things military and WWII.  Both of our fathers served in WWII and as you know, my husband loves anything WWII or military related, so we return again and again to Normandy, but then again who does not want to return to France? Allons-y!

In June 2017, we decided to participate in the 1st Normandie-World War II International Film Festival in St-Marie-Du-Mont and Carentan.  The festival is organized by the US World War II Foundation. By sponsoring the event, we were invited to the Red Carpet night held at Utah Beach Museum in Sainte-Marie-du-Mont.

The 2017 VIP event honored 2nd Ranger Battalion and D-Day Pointe-du-Hoc veteran George Klein. As promised there were Band of Brothers actors, wine and food, tanks, guns and aircraft…it was fabulous.

James Madio (Technician Fourth Grade Frank Perconte Band of Brothers), John MacLennan (husband extraordinaire), and Rick Warden (First Lt. Harry F. Welsh, Band of Brothers)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kathy schmoozing with James Madio

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If Band of Brothers does not ring a bell, it was originally an HBO series, chronicling the story of Easy Company, 506th Regiment of the 101st Airborne Division, U.S. Army  and based on the book written by Stephen Ambrose, interviews with survivors of Easy Company, as well as soldiers’ journals and letters, and experiences of these young men who knew extraordinary bravery and extraordinary fear. 

 

We have watched Band of Brothers numerous times. Any male actor who is anyone is probably in it and it is 100% Rotten Tomatoes.  Tom Hanks – check.  James McAvoy – check.  Damian Lewis – check…the list goes on.

The Normandie-WWII International Film Festival is the only film festival in the world featuring the latest on WWII content only, from feature films to shorts. Over 50 films made the cut for the inaugural film festival which were projected in the Carentan Salle du Théâtre. We viewed a few of them over the four day festival and met up with Robin and Jane Brockman at a few events and again for dinner in Bayeux. Robin had submitted a WWII action film entitled Here Again.  He is an American & British national and author, editor, playwright, director, and actor. He grew up in Kansas and joined the US Army at 17, serving as a paratrooper in America and as an infantryman in the Vietnam War. There he underwent a profound Near Death Experience. Later he was an observer in conflicts from the Middle East to El Salvador, Ethiopia to Bosnia, and on the Turkish-Iraqi and Syria-Iraqi borders.  Rob and Jane reminded us that we meet the nicest, most interesting people all over the world.  We wish him well in his future film-making endeavors

 

 

Besides the film festival, our trip would begin with a memorable military bang. As John’s birthday treat, I booked a full day personal tour of Canadian D-Day sites with Bayeux Shuttle.  Mike, our guide was extremely knowledgeable and thanks to him, we were in for a special treat when we again visited the Juno Beach Centre, which is the Canadian WWII museum.

It’s a Canadian Museum – of course there will be curling.

June Beach serenely beautiful

52,022 Poppies representing the 52,022 Canadian soldiers buried in France.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The day of our visit, David Teacher, M.B.E. was at the museum speaking to a group of school children.  He was among the first soldiers to land in Normandy as he drove his three ton truck off a landing craft.

Crowdfunding had enabled David, who is in a wheelchair, to come back to the 2017 D-Day events to drive a Bedford QL WW2 truck on Juno Beach just as he did on D-Day. Can  you imagine the hoops and hurdles to make this happen?  Insurance requirements, government permits allowing one of these trucks on June beachhead, fabricating a special lift to raise David up into the truck and therefore additional liability insurance, getting the truck from the London military enthusiast collector to Juno Beach, film crews, weather concerns…mind boggling.  Our tour guide was involved in making it happen, so we were able to meet David Teacher and see the awe and enthusiasm of the school children crowding around him. He signed a copy of his book for us: Beyond My Wildest Dreams.

We read there is a plan afoot to take David to Belgium as he is a Battle of the Bulge veteran and to the Netherlands where he also served. He gives his time freely to charities and volunteers speaking to school parties about his war time service.  We were honored and touched to meet this wonderful man.

 

Boys and their toys

 

Canada House: Thought to be the first house liberated by troops who landed on Juno beach. These troops were from the Queen’s Own Rifles of Canada. Around the house, more than 100 Canadian soldiers were killed or wounded in the first minutes of the invasion.

 

 

On the House are three plaques: one to the Queen’s Own Rifles of Canada, one to The Fort Garry Horse and one to the Régiment de la Chaudière

 

 

 

 

 

We visited the somber garden at L’Abbaye d’Ardenne where the memorial reads: “In memoriam: on the night of 7-8 June 1944, eighteen Canadian soldiers were murdered in this garden while being held here as prisoners of war. Two more prisoners died here, or nearby, on 17 June 1944. Lest we forget.” 

L’Abbaye d’Ardenne

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another day found us attending an all day parachute jump from WWII planes in farmers’ fields with thousands of our closest friends.  Like many multi-tasking Americans, we planned to arrive on schedule, see a few jumps, then drive out and go on to our next activity, stopping somewhere for a wonderful lunch and a coffee…not the French way.  Should have packed a picnic and lawn chairs, planning to relax, celebrate, and enjoy the festivities. The police planned a one-time controlled entrance for everyone thru the one-lane hedgerows into the fields set for parking.  In the evening, the traffic flow would turn around when the event is over. Luckily there were booths selling beer and grilling sausages, so it was not a problem to slow down and enjoy the moment.

The D-Day Experience is another must see at Dead Man’s Corner in Saint-Côme-du-Mont, featuring a 3D immersive exhibit, a flight simulator, two museums, two shops, and a memorial dedicated to airborne troops.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What would a celebration be without a parade?  We spent another fine day at Isigny-Sur-Mer enjoying their annual D-Day military parade which is similar to 4th of July only probably a lot more military vehicles and tanks. Everyone dresses up like it’s the 1940’s and re-enactors come from all over including Belgium and the Netherlands to dress up like Canadians, British, and Americans. 

 

 

 

 

 

As we drove out of Isigny at the end of the day, we came face to face with a Sherman tank blocking the entire roadway. The drivers had no intention of moving unless perhaps it was to flatten all of us in our tiny Peugeots and Renaults, so we managed to back up quickly along with everyone else and find alternate routes out of town. Makes for a great story and memory….

We will be back again and again, and most certainly in 2019 for the 75th Anniversary of D-Day.

C’est Tout!

Normandie-WWII International Film Festival June 2017

Our 2017 significant vacation adventure is just about upon us as we prepare to travel next week. Our first destination is Normandy for the inaugural WWII International Film Festival to be held June 2 through 5, 2017 at Musee Du Debarquement Utah Beach in Saints-Marie-Du-Mont and Cinema Le Cotentin in Carentan.

Do not fear my little friends…there will be plenty of other Le Bon Vie fun to report on this holiday. Stay tuned for updates from some lovely European towns and cities.

C’est tout!

 

 

 

 

 

 

La Grande Motte, Round Trip to the Sea

La Grande Motte is a popular seaside resort and port in southern France in the Languedoc-Roussillon region.

entrance beach

Over 2,000,000 tourists descend upon the area in the summer no doubt because of their beautiful sand beaches that slope gently into the sea.  The white sand extends for about 7 kilometers.

behind

We visited in early June and enjoyed the warmish bathing waters and the wide open pristine sand beach. Le Grand Patron is not a beach person with his fair Scottish-Canadian freckled skin, but he is amenable to sunscreen and a swim shirt for protection. The weather was fantastic and the water, as I said warm enough for us to frolic and cool down on the sand bars while the waves of the Mediterranean broke over us.

white sandThe sky was cerulean blue and the sea a darker shade, accented against the white sand –  memory making view.

 

 

blue water

 

 

 

 

as far as the eye can see

 

 

 

 

 

 

There is free parking no more than 600 meters away from the beach and all of the development is away from the beach itself. That being said, there are ice cream & Diet Coke boys that push their motorized carts up and down the beach to ensure happy children and hydrated moms…and a couple men balancing trays of hamburgers on their heads as they walked up and down hawking their wares.

ice cream man

 

 

 

 

 

 

hamburger guy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We planned to have a light déjeuner and were delighted to find Le Voile Bleue Beach Club directly on the beach near our access point, with local huîtres on the menu. Loving summer!

huitres la grand motte

wine is light

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we were enjoying the sun and the sand and the water, I realized it is almost (but not yet) forty years since high school graduation (shocking). Tradition at my high school was senior ditch day the Friday before graduation. All the seniors would ditch school and drive to the Michigan dunes. It was about an hour and a half drive and some of us would go for the day, some for the whole weekend, but you just had to go even, if you hitchhiked. So my friends and I loaded up the car for the weekend and we went with tradition. Great fun, the beach, the sun, driving back and forth to see who else was there, some shenanigans, and of course some drama.

Senior year of high school, all you can think about is the rest of your life: big decisions, what is next, college, jobs, what will I be, leaving home, becoming independent, staying friends, finding new friends, finding significant others, and all those other thoughts rambling around causing ripples and whirlpools.

So here I am (almost) 40 years later again at the beach staring at the sand dunes. No worries, no Marlboro Lights, the wine is chilled and being enjoyed at a nice beach club.

sailboat parasailing 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I went to school, found jobs, stayed friends with my forever friends, married, raised two fantastic kids, had a career, worked, bought, remodeled and sold houses, found the love of my life, traveled, retired, and traveled some more.  And now here I am again at the beach, thankful for everyone and everything in my life, my experiences…thinking about what is to come.  Almost full circle. It’s time to start a second circle.

 

monkey

Wonderful thoughts…free to plan and do more fun things with my husband and best friend. More travel, more time to spend keeping our bodies young and brains active, cycling, reading, photography, writing, creating, more time to spend with all of of our friends, kids and now grandkids.

delicate boybeach July 1stJohn swimming

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had such a great time at the beach in June, we came back again for one more visit in July. It was every bit as gorgeous the second trip. Enjoy the photos. Hope you start a new circle…C’est Tout!

just take me out to the sea

 

Vaison-La-Romaine, Another Provençal Gem

Vaison-La-Romaine is about an hour drive northeast from our home base in L’Isle Sur La Sorgue. With a few days left in Provence, we decided to venture out for a visit to this one of 100 Plus Beaux Villages de France.

Almost to our destination, we passed Malaucène. It was an inviting and charming town and a cycling mecca at the foot of Mont Ventoux. There were quite a few bike stores and cafés, so I am sure will be back to visit someday.

Tuesday is market day in Vaison-La-Romaine. One of us was surprised with that information, perhaps under the assumption that we were avoiding shopping. We arrived just in time for a patio lunch in the main square, with misters to ward off the heat, music, and une pression bière for Le Grand Patron. Merci beaucoup LGP for navigating us on one more Provençal adventure. The market was huge but the sun was hot, and the vendors were starting to take down their stands. Nonetheless, we found un pain ancienne and two luscious ripe and wonderful heirloom tomatoes to take home for dinner…their fate to be flavored with sea salt, basilic olive oil and basil leaves. Miam miam!


 

 

 

 

 

 

Fortified with salads and cold drinks, we ventured into the sun to hike to the medieval city across the Roman bridge, which is incidentally over 2000 years old. Across the bridge, we were faced with an impressive WWI and WWII military memorial dedicated to the sons of Vaison-La-Romaine.

Since we enjoyed an American length déjeuner, it was still a time of rest for the residents of Ville Médiévale. We climbed the quiet streets, interrupted only by the droning of the cicadas and a few camera laden tourists determined to make it to the top and the 12th Century Chateau despite the heat.





 


Besides the Ville Médiévale, there is an archeological site of preserved Roman ruins, wine tastings, Provençal cooking classes, cycling, and many shops and restaurants. Vaison-La-Romaine is certainly a destination where we could spend a few days on les vacances.  C’est Tout!

 

Sault Market and A Cycling Star

Sault is an old fortified village situated high atop a ridge overlooking a wide valley, with many lavendar fields spread out like purple patches on a summer quilt. patchwork lavendar

This amazing countryside is northeast of Villes sur Auzon where we had experienced a wine-cycling tour last week. It is also very close to the Gorges de la Nesque were we picnicked another day. Each time we drive back to this area, the lavendar is more in bloom and intense in hue.

L'Etoile cycle

bile sign

We knew we wanted to come back at least one more time this Provençal visit so Le Grimpeur could climb all those glorious Ventoux hills on a bike, and me for the lavendar and a little shopping. We planned a Wednesday visit when the Sault market could entertain me while John cycled. In the 18th and 19th centuries Sault was the center of an important glass industry. There are no glass works today, but the weekly market continues as it has since since 1515…and that’s good enough for me.cycle shop

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We found a brand new cycle shop just a km or two out of Sault, so we called ahead to rent a road bike.  L’Etoile Du Ventoux (The Star of Ventoux) had just opened for business and John rented their first road bike. They offered a brand new Fondriest 19-speed as well as new clip shoes right out of the box. John cycled up Col de la Ligne (altitude 756 meters) twice and was pleased to ride 60 kilometers.

sault market

dream of anna

Artisa

While John was cycling, I explored the village armed with camera and shopping sac. There are so many wonderful markets every day in Provence, but with limited luggage space, if I purchase something, I prefer fabricated in France or something fantastic that cannot be found at home. The markets are filled with fresh, colorful and delicious produce, soaps, oils, wine, bread, fromage, flowers, clothes, linens, bags and nougat to name a few. I like to check out the artisinal shops as well that sometimes are overlooked with the market stalls blocking them…and sometimes I am just delighted with some photos.

The proprietress at Art’Isa sits at the counter hand-painting her porcelain ware.sault towersault kitty 2 pretty Sault doorholleyhocksmore lavendarsolaire

The village is open and large with many squares and cafés and panoramic overlooks to the Ventoux mountain range, and the Plateau de Vaucluse spread out across the south.

Just a few kilometers out of the village to the southwest are the deep canyons of the Gorges de la Nesque. gorge de la nesque

 

 

 

 

gorges 2

 

When John had cycled as much as he wanted, I picked him up and we drove part of his route to go back and enjoy the scenery and the lavendar fields up close. They smell delicious!

brilliant lavendar

kathy and lavendarlavendar & goldenrod

 

 

C’est Tout!

Ménerbes, Peter Mayle’s Captivating Hill Town

weather MenerbesProvencal weather today was delightful, sunny and blue skies, but cool and a little windy. A day trip to Peter Mayle’s Ménerbes, seemed just the ticket. There is a grand wine co op at the top of the village that we had visited before with friends and beautiful views out into the vineyards, but I particularly remembered approaching the town via Rue de la Fontaine which is lined with gorgeous shady plane trees.  The first charming building across from the parking lot is
La Vie Est Belle. We stopped to view the wares and to speak with the owner. John found a cave in the rear of this historic shop that was up to his standards of a true man cave. Lots of eclectic things to acquire…and an inviting patio.

chairs La Vie Est Belle

We made our way to the top of the village, stopping to take photos of whatever caught our fancy and checked out the store at
Maison De La Truffe et du Vin du Luberon.

It was very quiet for a Saturday, and today we seemed to be attracted to doors…symbolic? Hope, opportunity, opening, passage from one state or world to another, entrance to new life…retirement and new beginnings….

Menerbes secret garden

Kathy Menerbes
another secret garden Continue reading

Adventure in the Ventoux Vineyards

Villes sur Auzon entrance to town

He had me at moped and wine…and lunch clinched the deal.  My husband has been throwing about the idea of a moped wine tour for a bit, and just came upon an ad for Real adventure in the Ventoux vineyards!

wine tasting Flasson

Husband from this point on may be referred to as Le Grand Patron as we are trying out nom de guerres for him. Today he feels like the big boss, which I guess makes me La Petite Patron, but we’ll see, it may just be his unrivaled success in planning this adventure…now back to the wine story.

Le Patron had us up early today to reach
Cave TerraVentoux in Villes sur Auzon by 9 am for our mythical ride on an E-Moped. As it turned out, there were a group of people signed up today and the transportation of choice was electric-bikes, which I found are just as wonderful as mopeds, especially in the hilly Mount Ventoux terrain after tasting generous glasses of wine.

cerises on the tree

After being sized up for bicycles and meeting our delightful guides, Ann, Suzy, Gabrielle and Tomas, we were off as a group of about a dozen, or douzaine as they say.
les cerises

The first stop was a cherry farm (ferme cerise) where we liberally tasted ripe cherries off the trees and met the farmer and his quality control staff. Each cherry is hand picked off the trees and sorted for quality. There has been a lot of rain lately and not enough wind, resulting in the cherries cracking a bit. So these sweet cerises were available for us to munch as much as we desired, since they would not make it to market.

cherry picking

 

cerises

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomas

Back on the bikes, we cycled higher to Flassan, a quiet little village of about 400 inhabitants.  By now it was late morning and time for our first tasting which was a feast for the eyes as well as the tongue. Tomas was waiting for us and had set up the glasses at the village fountain. This stop we tasted Terres De Truffles by Terraventoux, along with an amuse bouche of slivers of soft bread topped with fromage chèvre and Acacia honey drizzle. Delicious!

 

Terres De Truffles is of the AOC Ventoux classification and made with Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Viognier grapes. Impressive information, right? That’s because it was so good, we bought a couple bottles and I can read the label here in the comfort of our home away from home.

Flassan fountain

On we cycled in the shadow of Mount Ventoux, which if you are familiar with Tour de France, is a very high and difficult mountain stage and usually alternated in the Tour with Alpes D’Huez on one of the mountain days. Ventoux blue sky

We stopped here and there for lessons on agriculture and discussed the winemaker’s co op which includes approximately 600 hectares of vines. Eventually we found ourselves stopping in a small sandy clearing in a cutout of a vineyard.  Everyone was instructed to lock their bikes to each other’s, so we had a mass of a dozen bicycles attached. No one was leaving this party if anyone lost their key. We hiked down a leafy sandy path, over tree limbs and rocks, where the sand reminded us of the Roussillon ocre. Soon we found ourselves in a clearing where Tomas was again waiting for us with another picnic table covered with delights.
ocre hideaway repartWe found four more TerraVentoux wines, a Rosé and 3 reds, as well as jambon, saucisses, local artisinal pâtes, four cheeses, and more cherries…oh my. Only chocolat was missing from this feast.
fromage cave terraventouxThe reds were light for pairing with summer foods and whereas I mostly turn to whites, I thoroughly enjoyed the red tastings and Le Patron picked up a bottle of his favorite, Château Bonadona 2012, which is a Grenache-Syrah. While the tour was mainly in French as the other guests were Swiss, Tomas and Gabrielle both spoke excellent English and would stop here and there to speak with us about other topics. Tomas is an intern with the winery and working on his Masters in Hospitality, so we discussed sustainable tourism. ocre hideaway 2The canyon where we had our picnic was on private vintner property. It was carved by a stream running through the ocre sand over time and then the stream was diverted for agriculture, leaving the canyon in it’s wake. Unfortunately, tourists and local youth have carved and defaced the walls, but rather than closing it to the public, the owner wants to leave it open for people to enjoy walking through the cool shade as he remembers doing in his youth. ocre stream bedAfter a lovely hour where we socialized with the other guests, we reluctantly trooped back up the path to sort out the transportation. This is where the electric bikes were most welcome as we still had quite a few hills to climb before finding our way back to the cave and wine shop. It was a relaxed drive back home through the winding road, full of sun, wine, and the good life.

 

our cottage

 

 

 

C’est tout!  Well done my Grand Patron.

 

Roussillon, Plus Beaux et Plus Ocre Village

Roussillon, the ocre-red village and one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France, is a tourist and artist destination on the southern edge of the Plateau de Vaucluse. We had last visited Roussillon in 2010 but had not tackled the ocre cliffs that time, so we started this adventure with the hike right out of the parking lot so that we would be fresh for the hour long trek.start

Ochre is a natural pigment in the sandy soil that makes up the cliffs around Roussillon. Iron oxides color shades with the sands ranging from yellow to purple. The mineral landscape today reflects the effects of erosion and mining work. Informational signs along the trail describe the geology, the flora and the history of the ocher deposits in the Luberon. ocre hike 4 ocre hike 3 ocre hike 2 ocre cliffs 2 ocre 7 ocre 5 Continue reading