Being an avid genealogist, I am eager to claim ancestors worldwide for both myself and my husband. We enjoy visiting different countries to explore history and culture, and to imagine where and how our relatives lived. In celebration of a significant birthday this year, we booked a September trip to Norway in order to discover my Scandinavian roots.

After landing in Oslo, and a quick trip on the Flytoget to the city, we settled in for a couple nights at a Thon Hotel within walking distance from Central Station. Lovely and comfortable, the hotel offered free breakfast at a Michelin recommended restaurant and a dinner buffet, welcome in a country where dining is known to be expensive.

Our first full day in Norway was a planned ancestry expedition to Fredrikstad, from where my great grandparents emigrated in the 1800’s. Fredrikstad is approximately 1 hour south of Oslo by train. It is the main city in Ostfold county, and is currently the fifth largest in Norway. Fredrikstad was built at the mouth of the Glomma River as a replacement city, after Sarpsborg (upstream) was burnt down by the Swedish Army in the 1500s.

We arrived at the city centre on the west bank of the Glomma River just in time to enjoy a delightful birthday lunch at Restaurant Slippen, arranged my thoughtful husband.

 

After toasting with Sancerre, and dining on oysters and fresh seafood, we walked across the bridge to the free ferry that would motor us down to the fortified old town on the east bank. It was a charming journey down the Gamma, viewing the many boats harbored along the way.

 

The Old town in Fredrikstad is a much-visited sight, as it is one of the best preserved fortified towns in the Nordic region.  It was constructed according to Dutch architectural models, with wide, water-filled moats and high earth ramparts. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We walked the cobbled streets, enjoyed the architecture, and stopped in the tourism office for a chat, where the clerk educated us in local history. When Sarpsborg was burned down by the Swedish Army in the 1500’s, King Frederick II decreed a new town be built and named after himself in a better location. This is the current day Old Town. She assured us the Swedish are fine now; They love the Norwegians. We promised ourselves to do more research on Scandinavian history as Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Finland, and Iceland all seem to have intertwined pasts, conflicts, and rulers.

The old town quarter of Fredrikstad has 350 inhabitants today. It seems a quiet community, although filled with art galleries, unique shops, the Fredrikstad Museum, historic church, and many opportunities to enjoy a meal, a bottle of wine, or coffee.  Here you can also visit Gamlebyen Miniature Railroad, the largest model railroad exhibition in Scandinavia.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We soon found ourselves in the courtyard of Cafe Magenta and could not resist a homemade treat. Fortified with caffeine and caramel apple pie, we continued to meander the Fredrikstad Fortress area which was constructed between 1663 and 1666. The only time the fortress was attacked was during the 1814 Swedish–Norwegian War.

 

 

The fortress closed in 1903, but continued to serve as a garrison until the remaining military installations in Fredrikstad were closed in 2002. It is unique by being the only fortress that is preserved as it was in Norway. The mix of old buildings and art exhibitions is photogenic and provides an interesting stroll back in time.

 

 

 

Being early September, the town was lovely, although a little gray and quiet. Children had returned to school and fall was in the air. All too soon it was time to leave this historic town with worn cobbles, narrow streets and impressive buildings as we continued our Norwegian adventure…C’est tout!